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Also: If somebody could confirm that the CV joints on 172 and 182 Cups are the same - i.e. same spline pattern & size - that would be very helpful!

I figured I would dig this old thread up, rather than starting a new one! I've been trawling the site this afternoon, but there seems to be a massive amount of conflicting info about all the different wheel bearing / hub / hub carrier options and the differences between them. I'm hoping someone...

No problemo. :D

M12 x 1.5mm x 26mm with 60Deg taper are the standard size for the Cup, or you can fit 32mm if you plan on using any spacers. Grayston SB10 - Standard: http://www.part-box.com/product_info.php?products_id=28153 Grayston SB12 - Long: http://www.part-box.com/product_info.php?products_id=28158

Ah, you're talking outer ball joints! I'm on about the inner ones. :)

I would get the tracking checked just in case, but it sounds like a seized front left caliper. :)

1215mm sounds like a lot.. the wishbone inner pivots are ~650mm apart and the inner track rod BJ's are definitely inboard of them! @NorthloopCup - No problem! The travel isn't so urgent, so just do it whenever you can. :)

Awesome, really appreciate the help! :smile: One more thing.. could you measure the rack travel lock-lock? I guess measuring from the end you did earlier to the end of the rack body on full lock, then turn to opposite lock and measure again would be the best way.

Ok that's actually not that much of a problem.. If you can measure the width of the rack gear then I can work out where the BJ's are in relation to that by looking at mine. :D

Ah.. does it have any steering arms on it? If it does have some on and the Cup ones are different at the inner BJ's then I'll still be interested to know.. maybe I can work something out by looking at my arms, I'm just trying to avoid taking my rack off as it's a PITA job! It's just the inner...

AST's.

If you could that would be perfect! I just need the measurement from one ball joint centre to the other, but if you could measure the linear travel lock to lock as well that would be a bonus. :smile:

Bonjour! Possibly a long shot, but does anybody have (or is able to measure) the width of a 172 Cup* steering rack? That would be the distance between the inner tie rod ball joint centres. Fingers crossed somebody has a rack and a tape measure in front of them.. you never know. :tonguewink...

Have you checked the alignment? That'd be the first place to start.

I used mine at DN10 in July and have had them on since. Track spec springs are probably a bit stiff for road.. but for track it's awesome.

Another vote for AST.. well worth the extra money! Failing that, you could have a set of cheaper struts made up with the AST track spring rates, but you would need to have the dampers custom valved or they'll be useless.

It was a lot of work! I'm not worried about failures, though. It's been tested via FEA with a good safety factor. The Clio uprights would be a lot simpler!

Thanks for the reply! It's partly for the challenge, but mostly because I don't like balljoint extenders! The uprights were never designed to take the extra stress of having the BJ on a big lever and it's not a particularly elegant solution either. There were people doing this with 205's a...

Morning chaps.. I've read that the Cup front hubs are different to the standard 172 / 182, but does anyone know about the hub carrier / upright? Are the hardpoints (i.e. BJ hole, Tie Rod hole & Strut holes) all in the same place? It doesn't strike me as something a cheap car company would do...

Mine really doesn't seem to like anything below 27.5 at the rear.. I tried 26 and it just didn't feel right! I generally run 27.5 rear and adjust the front around the 28-29 mark. I have high rear spring rates though.. 450lb/in.

I'd also be interested in prices as my RC6 are getting a little thin..

9/10 times, yeah you will. I just don't get the attitude whereby everything is done QT / FT when torque wrenches are inexpensive and settings are freely available. You don't see people doing head bolts up QT, yet for some reason safety-critical parts like brakes, suspension and wheels are fair...

Not as simple as that, really.. wanging things up can sometimes do more harm than good, and I don't just mean in terms of being able to undo them again. If bolt torque settings are available, which they always are if you know where to look, then they should always be used.

Yeah slicks would be lovely.. cage is pretty mandatory in that situation though!

Yoko A048 if you can afford a proper motorsport tyre, Toyo R888 if you can't. I spoke to the tyre tech on the DN10 track day and he said the Yoko's are the only tyre that has a proper motorsport construction.. the rest, especially Nankang and Federal, are road tyres with less tread.

They're similarly priced to DS2500 / DS3000 as far as I'm aware.. my mate had some for his hillclimb 205 and they were awesome. Cold performance was very, very good.

An update on this.. I got my machined spigot rings from Rimstock, only to find they were ~1mm too small for the wheel bores, so spent the afternoon before my 'ring trip machining up a set that fitted properly. I also removed what remained of the paint from the tapered bolt seats. The bolt...

Verdict on the AST's, as predicted, is FIRM. :D Buttery smooth, but firm.

I use A048 on mine.. Unbelievably good in damp and dry, but I wouldn't want to try them in heavy rain. w

Steven - good posts! I think those who have the knowledge are able to cherry-pick the bits we know are going to make a difference and leave out the unnecessary stuff, resulting in optimum bang for buck. :) I have too deep a money pit in my 205 as it is.. shouldn't have bought those AST's...