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Have you tried someone rocking the bonnet whilst you work the lever in the car or is it not doing anything?
Failing that and if you can't get it on a ramp best bets smashing the n/s upper grille and your in.
Black 172 A5 2230 Tonight private reg something similar to 1SPB, I was playing with the Ford Fusion then you blasted past me then overtook another car a bit quick.
Around Atherstone way I think.
Remove the glass, put on a soft surface (lowered parcel shelf is perfect) and cut a piece of 8mm (inside diam) brake pipe/fuel pipe rubber hose 45mm in length and with a cut down one side, glue over the metal rod on the handle, leave to dry, refit, pulls the handle down tighter, done.
Remove the seal around the sunroof inside, then lower the headlining slighty and either side at the front, running down the A pillars is a drain tube, chances are one of them is either blocked or no pushed on fully - allowing the water to get straight onto the headlining. Also worth checking the...
You can remove the gear knob itself by just pulling up very hard, its just a very tight push fit.
The gaiter will come off without taking it off though, it unclips from the trim at the bottom, then cut off the cable tie and replace it in the same place when you refit it.
You need to clean the rear light cluster connections with a small wire brush really, sometimes a toothbrush does the job. If its got bad and been left, it can damage the circuit boards clipped into the clusters beyond repair. While your there you'll see the earth strap going to the chassis make...
What model and what age is it?
If its a 1.2 16v I'd say either Injection Computer problems (cover rubs through wiring / water fills up Injection computer) or your throttle body wants a decent clean up.
What did the dealer tell you after they looked at it?
Check your fuse first, the horn itself is infront of the N/S/F wheel, loads of crap can get in there so its a good idea to clean up the connections and see if its getting 12v - if it is and they're clean your horns probably shot.
Take it back mate thats the wrong stuff, its its not in the handbook it'll be in the red service book.
Any decent semi 10w40 is what you want, Halfords sell it, even cheaper if you know someone with a trade card.
Cat its at the bottom mate its an arse to get on when your not on a ramp.
If you do get down to it, you can check the compressor clutch spins freely, by hand, and if your keen see if its getting 12v.
Compressors don't often go, I'd say you've either got no gas in it or are low on gas -...
JB1 was in most of the Mk1 Clios, and the Mk2 1.2s, JB3 was in for example the old petrol Lagunas, the Mk2 1.6s etc. Its meant to be a bit stronger but the gearings bound to be different theres so many different types.
Matt Black on here is the man to speak to.
IMO a drop of engine oils best on each wheel bolt (alloys in particular), you 'shouldn't' use copper grease on alloy wheel bolts as sometimes they don't torque up, they just keep going round and round but the wrench doesn't click.
The LED lights on the R8 are bound to be the latest generation 3 LEDs which I bet cost silly money, they look like the old old 1st generation LEDs that are about 30 times less bright.
Bottom of the headlights or round the bend of the headlights would look better.
Where did you get it gassed and did they give you a printout of how much gas they put in?
If the gas sides okay, first thing I'd do is check the a/c pressure sensor connectors not full of water. If the sensors knackered and it thinks its got no gas in the compressor clutch wont kick in as Ditz...