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One quick question.. Mine's got the same problem (also got a decat), but also produces smoke when you rant it and lift off...same overfueling problem.?

Really obvious (i know), but have you checked the wheel bolts...mine was doing a similar thing on a track day and just founf that the bolts were not torqued up correctly.. Also have the CV joint problem (but only at low speed), packed the joint with grease and all's been well for the last 10k...

...Also keep in mind that the Mk1 Ph1 and Ph2 ECUs are different (immobaliser) so be cautious of any chip you buy on Ebay.. Also they need soldering, so not just a clip out/in job like on other cars..

16v rear disc brakes have always been crap..mines failed several years running. Frequently it's down to the handbrake cable, as spanner monkeys just tighten and tighten it up...great idea, but does not allow the full movement of the handbrake level (on the caliper), so fails horribly. Calipera...

I've got a K-Tec one on my 16v, and am very happy with it..

I have the unsilenced version on my 16v. Does make more noise, but not too overbearing.. Also frees up the car at higher revs.. Pain changing for the MOT, but there you go....

Drilling holes in a Porsche airbox...yep, i'm sure Porsche spends millions of pounds on development, eeking out every last little horse available...and muppet with a 10mm drill can release so so much more... lol.

Very imformative..cheers for the info.

16v..without a shadow of a doubt.

You can also buy split CV boot kits, that just slide over and you seal them..saves you taking drive shafts out and stuff.

Even easier...replacement 16v ECUs are on ebay for about £15..change it over and you can flog the chipped on ebay for about £80.. Nice and simple and make some profit.!

Bodywork quite good, but wheels have seen better days...curbed and lost lacquer..umm, genuine 32k.?

Believe the Ph2 has a built in immobaliser.. You can't put a Ph2 into a Ph1 (it just doesn't start..i tried it), but unsure about the other way round...suspect not.

^^ Naples_16v....PM sent.

I got my 16v cambelt changed last year...Renault (inchsacpe) in Southampton wanted £501..! (even the woman behind the counter had to check it three times..!), so went to another garage locally, and they did it for £120 (inc part & VAT). Renault indicate it's something like a 8-9 hour job, where...

I'm getting about 250 to a full tank (about £30 ish), and my 16v is pretty much trashed everywhere. I find i get a little more MPG from Optimax than normal 95 RON (which kind of counters the additional expence), but it's pretty consistent about 30mpg...which is pretty good i think. The short...

Normal...yes. Mine does the same, only slightly drowned out by the Scorpian exhaust.

It's real easy...a single jubilee clip attaches it to the ICVS and you just have to make sure the seperate idle hose attaches below the main connection (ie there should be two holes in your filter). The large black hard rubber tube is a very poor cold air feed thingi...scrap it, and create your...

15 volts isn't that high..although it's a 12v battery, it's not uncommon for under power to exceed 14-15v. Think my 16v sits about 15.5v under load. The lights dimming is again not uncommon, means the battery is a little low, but if they brighten up when revved slightly higher, means the...

Simple test..taste the water...if it tastes of antifreeze, it's your coolent escaping from somewhere (head gasket, etc), if it's clear and tastes ok, it's rain water.. Don't go drinking the stuff, but it pretty obvious to tell the different between the two.. (medical note, antifreeze kills if...

I know "German, Swedish & French" do it for Audi's and BMW's and you can buy the unit for abourt £12..not sure about clios but may be worth checking out. GSF seem to be on a bit of a 'learning curve' for renaults, but maybe with time.....

not to mention the VForce is bloddy heavy..!

I had the same problem on my J-plate 16v, with speed 3 going and then 1 & 2 finally packing up. I found the problem to be with the final connection to the fan (access via top & back of the engine compartment, where the wipers pop through). They had shorted out, and had melted the connection...

Yep, holes on the subframe for mine aswell..

I used to work in Southampton Docks, where I believe all the UK Clios (and other renaults) come into the country through. The ship docks every 36 hours, and they get driven from the same birth to the same compound in the docks, then loaded from the same compound direct to transporters to the...

Swap the plugs around and see if it's the same cylinder mis-firing each time.. Mine was just a duff plug (even though not too old).. Managed to have a play, and by swapping the plugs found it was a different cylinder each time (indicated not the leads/dist/rotor arm, etc). Bought new plugs...

Has exactly the same problem with the idleing on my Ph1 16v.. As Jamesy has indicated, mine was exatly that. Apparently the coolent (especially Renauly branded stuff) corrodes the coolent sensor over the years, and gives mis-information to the ECU (even though the incar dial reads as almost...

Hi Mate. Had a similar problem with my 16v; when the water sensor went a bit duff, it affected the ECU thinking it's either too hot or too cold..this in turn affected the fueling as the auto cold start cut in (although i assumes this was driven just off the air temp). If when fitting the new...

Vinegar..sounds strange i know, but works perfectly..!

Hi Tom, I've got a full Scorpion (de-cat back) system on my 16v (including the centre section).. Compared to some other standard 16s i've driven it certainly seems to free things up a bit and give a little extra, especially at the top end. Hard to say a direct comparison with a straight...