Recent content by da rok

just to add to the last post, there is a earth for earth for each of the rear clusters as well that causes trouble, best to clean those as well, they are behind the carpet in the boot, as for the speedo, if the clusters arnt messing it around there is some times a bad connection on the plug on...

mine did the same and it was a combination of a dirty TB, bad map sensor and bad coolant temp sensor, normally when the crank sensor goes it just swings and wont fire, BUT, id give all those sensors a clean, sometimes metal dust sticks to the tdc sensor and messes it around, map sensor is easy...

if the immobilizer light flashes or stays on solid that indicates there may be a problem with the key or the encoder ring, ive also had some cases where bad earths mess around with everything, so you can try give all the earth points a clean around the engine bay, theres around 5 of them

silly question, but do you have a spare key?

i just used a generic gator, been working fine for years, if theres no play on the inner joint then take the ball joint out the hub, crack the locknut and count the turns that the ball joint comes off... reverse to put back, if you out by any half a turn when putting it back then you should feel...

Check the earths, there are several of them in the engine bay and often cause the electronics to go haywire

yep, thats the fuel rail that needs replacing, just make sure you only get the rail and not the injectors along with it, else you will be charged a mint

ive had worse ? connectors have arrived so ill keep them in the cubby as a threat... if the original messes around again then ill change them. fixed a lot of problems by scaring the original components into working like that lol

im not sure what they are called but they can be bought, similar to a riv nut, but with clips both sides something like this...

ive cleaned the throttle body more times than i can count witch either cures it briefly or does not make a difference, ive ordered a aftermarket waterproof plug, planning to solder some wires on the board and use the aftermarket plug as the factory one is crap... done the same on some other...

so was driving along, went to overtake another car and when i came off the gas, it just carried on going, so eased on the brakes then tapped the go pedal and it came right... now this generally would be a sticky throttle cable... but mine is a ph2, electronic throttle body. has anyone...

they do seem to seep through the bearing a bit, does not seem to effect the level much between services on mine though...

more than likely a bad connection on the stalk or the light clusters them selves, check the earths as well

looks juicy

theres door open/closed switches on the bottom corners of the door aperture as well, door lock switches are built into the central locking actuators... look like these...