Recent content by Acethepower

Thank you !!!

Lol, I thought as much. Cheers.

I've searched for ages and can't seem to find the setting. Does anybody know the torque setting for the rear beam bushes and the 6 carriage bolts that go through the body to hold the shackles on?

Yes I am, absolutely elated cheers mate.

So I've cracked it!!! Unbelievable feeling to hear it start up. In the end I figured the only place that the connection issue could be was between the ECU and the ECU plug so I studies the female mins on the plug and low and behold pins 30 and 57 were a bit splayed out soto test my theory I put...

So in theory the only thing that can cause solid red is 27 and 57 to 19 and 20 fault?

Is there a stupid Renault procedure (like ignition on for 30 seconds then off for 30 seconds get out the car pat my head three times...) I have to do to (I know this isn't the right term)"reset" everything once I've gone through everything again or should it just work?

Problem is I've already swapped ECU UCH and key fob from donor car (that were working fine before removal) and got exactly the same issue. I'm going to recheck everything and stick the battery on charge, might order some new relays just in case. I suppose if all else fails I can get it recovered...

I have a standard ECU and continue to have solid immobiliser light oil pressure light stop serv and ESC light. I might have to throw in the towel and call an autospark.

I should have mentioned in case it has any value to finding this problem, the car started and ran fine and then I changed the clutch and now I have this solid immobiliser non starter.

So I've just vdrop tested the power pins on ECU in ignition 2 on the key and got these results Pin 66 - drop of 0.07v Pin 30 - drop of 0.02v Pin 29 - drop of 0.07v I also continuity checked from pin 29 to engine bay fuse and 5 amp fuse in the dash with no issues. Can anyone see an issue with...

Wow cheers for the fast replys folks. So I've checked pin 29 to the coil of the fuel pump relay and that has continuity, going back into the garage soon to vdrop test all power pins on ECU. I'll keep you posted

I've successfully continuity checked pins 3, 33, 28 and 67 with battery negative and successfully continuity checked pins 30 and 66 with battery positive. is it worth checking for 12v on 30 and 66 with battery connected?

I know I am clutching at straws as last post was 2 years ago lol, I have this exact issue, having done everything in every thread I can find, including continuity check every pin of the uch to ecu and every plug on the loom to the ecu, swap the ecu uch and key, cleaned and tested all relays and...