the car is mocking me!!

[JD]

Whats blown your 5Amp fuse about the comment above?

G3 is absolutely fine, you boys are just pussys lol. Just be very light with the rotary and you'll get instant results.........

If the paints as hard as hes saying, then it will be no problems. Ive used it on clear coat (final coat) thats 3 hours old when in a serious rush.......no problems mirror finish. (Make sure you have a foam end on the polisher and DEFINATELY keep it wet as hell)

Pretty much . . .

 

[Alan]

Pmsl! Decked .... it?

I did indeed little Kevin...i wish i was that good with product knowledge..

 

[Gally]

lolg3lols! Crazy fool!

 

[Simon@SprayShack]

I quote the farecla web site, G3 to rectify......G10 to finish. Isnt he trying to rectify damaged paint?? i will admit not a noob compound for sure tho, esp if you dont know the paint depth.

 

[JD]

I know lad, but G3 is something that bodyshops use to just get rid of scratches in new paint (no offense Kevin). It's not a detailing product as you will cut so quickly it's not worth thinking about.

As mentioned, the idea of the term paint correction, within detailing, is to remove the scratches, while at the same time removing the least amount of top coat possible.

That's the skill, that's the art, that's what you pay for when companies/detailers quote large sums of money.

 

[Gally]

Boom headshot and quite reserved aswell!

Bodyshops.. I shiit em.

 

[AK]

OK lad. Like I say, not being a prick but just would rather have questions than "s**t, my paint's knackered, wot think?".

If the polish has not gone clear (dependant on polish) it means it has not broken down and therefore you are not spending enough time on it. What polish were you using lad?

If there is marring there, try looking into something called the Zenith Technique. This involves several speeds and going up then down the scale, the idea being the high speed takes the marks out and the lower speeds take the marring (left by the rotary) out.

Don't think you're a prick mate and appreciate you taking the time to reply

Polish is Menzerna PO 85 RE 5 so pretty light cut etc on a finishing pad (also from Menzerna)

 

[JD]

OK chap, in that case exactly what I said. You need to work the polish for longer.

The best checker is to see the polish go very silky and easy to wipe off. If you're overloading your pad or not working the panel for a long enough period of time then you will just be left with marring from rotary use.

The Zenith Technique is something you need to learn;

 

[RussZS]

Nowt wrong with G3, it's the same type of product as FCP and Power Gloss, just not quite as refined, and near impossible to finish down nicely with (it leaves its own marks and hazing/hologramming). For quick cutting, on hard paints, which you will refine, then it's fine, but no better (or cheaper!) than the alternatives out there.

It's not popular on DW and as such people think it's 'bodyshop crap' but in reality it's fine, if you know how to use it!!

The game is moving on though with micro abrasives etc. Something like Megs 105 shows what can be achieved from a modern, sophisticated, heavy cutting compound. It finishes down flawlessly if your technique is up to scratch. 1 hit wonder ftw!