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Standard Top Mount differences?



  Clio
Good evening!

I'm going to replace the front top mounts on my 182 with both cup packs. But on looking, there are two types listed. One is with a spacer nut, the other is without.

Which type should I be ordering as a pair? Thanks!
 
  Clio
Hi,

I have now been reading historic posts suggesting the Renault replacement kit was poorly designed?? Have I understood this right?

Can anyone assist in what part I need to be ordering? Thanks.
 
  Clio
Thanks for the replies.

What's the difference between the genuine Renault ones with spacer nut and the Febi top mounts?
 
  172 Cup, Williams
Not sure if this helps you, but the Gen Ren top mounts that I received from RPD recently were a modified version of what was removed from the car. Rather than having the small nut which secures the spring cup holder and then another bolt securing it to the suspension top mounts, with the new one a single bolt does the lot.
If you order from RPD you will receive the new part
 
  172 Cup, Williams
Yea, no problems at all.
Although as has been posted on this site before, the top mounts get quite a bit of stick and will inevitably start to wear out. I suppose the ultimate answer is to install solid top mounts and have the trade off of increased NVH.
 
  172 Cup, Williams
Top mounts shown in this image with the improved top nut and spacer combined
20170722_140548.jpg
 

Jekyll

ClioSport Club Member
It's the full kit I believe.

I had solid top mounts on mine and replaced them with these. I know the 2 wasn't interchangeable so it should come with everything you need.

However, that may have changed so it's best dropping them an email just to clarify.
 

Nine468

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio Trophy,BMW X5,
So can somebody clarify,,,
I have a pair of original Renault top mounts that I have removed from the car, these come with the spacer and 2 top mount nuts, ie lower one holding the spring etc together and the upper nut.
Ive just bought a new pair and these have come without the spacer and lower nut.
SO,,,,
Is it possible to fit the new ones with the old spacer and lower nut .??
Or do they not fit.??

Anyone know why Renault removed the spacer and lower nut from the kit.?
 
  PH2 172
So can somebody clarify,,,
I have a pair of original Renault top mounts that I have removed from the car, these come with the spacer and 2 top mount nuts, ie lower one holding the spring etc together and the upper nut.
Ive just bought a new pair and these have come without the spacer and lower nut.
SO,,,,
Is it possible to fit the new ones with the old spacer and lower nut .??
Or do they not fit.??
Anyone know why Renault removed the spacer and lower nut from the kit.?

If you bought kits with part number 543A09780R, you need the replacement for the spacer & 17mm nut, which is part number 8200867250.See the picture in this attachment.

http://www.renaultpartsdirect.co.uk...shock-absorber-top-mount-kit-with-spacer-nut/

In the past, these have been manufactured with too many threads, and would become thread bound before seating on the bearing.

Recently, it would appear that they have been modified and now fit correctly, but I would still recommend you pre-assemble and inspect before fit them on the car, in case you get supplied with the old stock.

If you compare the top caps, (the round discs you can see on top of the turrets in the engine bay), they are quite different, where the old design would sit over the 17mm nut, and the new design is flat bottomed, and sits on the 27mm nut / spacer I have given you the part number for.

Hope this helps.
 
  Clio
Hi everyone,

Just so anyone who reads this in the future is aware, I fitted the revised top mount kit and all went well until I came to have the car sit on the wheels. Both mounts stood proud, and on driving the nearside mount would knock. On further investigation, the revised kit results in the top of the mount sitting above the body. I also had on the nearside the lower cup of the mount working loose.

It appears that the revised design was to reduce the amount that the strut would rotate, by allowing the top of the strut to move freely separately from the body whilst the weight was carried by the bearing. The original design clamped the top of the strut to the car body, so the bottom half of the strut would turn when the wheels changed direction.

Because of the amount of play given in the revised design and how one mount kept working loose, in the end I resorted to using the new bearings and bottom cup from the kit, with the original nuts and top piece of the mount, in effect retaining the original design. Granted this means that the bottom half strut is rotating separately to the top but the dampers have survived a long time so far so it can't be that detrimental to them?!

Thanks,
 
  monaco 172
I'm confused by this.

If the new design does away with the 17mm nut holding the bearing etc to the spring, what holds all the assembly together when your fitting them back into the car?

I seem to remember when I did mine it was shock, spring, metal spring top, then the bearing sits inside the top mount with a metal insert in, then 17mm nut to hold it all together. Fit to car and then big top mount bolt which was built into the rubber sits on top inside the engine bay?

What changes in the new design that means it only needs the big bolt on top in the bay?
 
  PH2 172
The original design clamped the top of the strut to the car body, so the bottom half of the strut would turn when the wheels changed direction.

Sorry, you have got this so wrong, there was always a 5mm gap between the top cap in the engine bay and the turret, and the strut assembly rotates as one.
 
  PH2 172
I'm confused by this.

If the new design does away with the 17mm nut holding the bearing etc to the spring, what holds all the assembly together when your fitting them back into the car?

I seem to remember when I did mine it was shock, spring, metal spring top, then the bearing sits inside the top mount with a metal insert in, then 17mm nut to hold it all together. Fit to car and then big top mount bolt which was built into the rubber sits on top inside the engine bay?

What changes in the new design that means it only needs the big bolt on top in the bay?

The modified 27mm nut 8200867250 replaces the old spacer & 17mm nut, and holds the strut/spring assembly as it always did.
The top cap in the engine bay has a flat bottom, & sits on top of 27mm nut, & is retained by a 21mm nut that comes with the new kit.
MODIFIED 8200867250 27mm nut spacer.png
MODIFIED CLIO TOP MOUNT KIT.jpg
 
  monaco 172
Thanks Steve. Clears it up!

Are the parts interchangeable? Ie will the new spacer nut fit on my old mounts but still allow me to do away with the 17mm and separate spacer without having to buy complete new mounts?
 
  PH2 172
Thanks Steve. Clears it up!

Are the parts interchangeable? Ie will the new spacer nut fit on my old mounts but still allow me to do away with the 17mm and separate spacer without having to buy complete new mounts?

You cannot use the old style top cap with the integral 21mm nut, as it is taller due to the fact that it used to fit over the 17mm nut.
If you need to replace the top mounts, it`s cheaper & easier to use the Febi ones Mark mentioned in post 17, from eBay.
The fact that the OP mentioned problems with play, makes me suspect there are still some of new type with too many threads floating about.
You can see here that it becomes threadbound before it makes contact with the bearing.
 

Attachments

  • MODIFIED NUT 2014-10-05 15.49.22.jpg
    MODIFIED NUT 2014-10-05 15.49.22.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 464
  monaco 172
You cannot use the old style top cap with the integral 21mm nut, as it is taller due to the fact that it used to fit over the 17mm nut.
If you need to replace the top mounts, it`s cheaper & easier to use the Febi ones Mark mentioned in post 17, from eBay.
The fact that the OP mentioned problems with play, makes me suspect there are still some of new type with too many threads floating about.
You can see here that it becomes threadbound before it makes contact with the bearing.
Thanks Steve.

Final question.

Are the febi ones designed to work with the old style 17mm and spacer or the new style spacer nut? As it doesn't look as though they come with the spacer from the pic
 
  2003 172
I'm having the same issue. New style top mount, I'm on my second new style nut, but it's still threadbound. I can't seem to find one of the updated new style nut anywhere. I've emailed a couple of companies but no-one seems to get back to me.
Any ideas? I'm £35 down already.
 
  Clio RS 172 2002
Damn, I just changed the top mounts on my Aussie 172 non-ESP and got the new top hats. Ended up using the old ones, but just ordered the new type of nuts. Hope they are correct...
 
  PH2 172
I'm having the same issue. New style top mount, I'm on my second new style nut, but it's still threadbound. I can't seem to find one of the updated new style nut anywhere. I've emailed a couple of companies but no-one seems to get back to me.
Any ideas? I'm £35 down already.
Run a 14mm drill down it to leave the same amount of threads as are on the original 17mm nut.
 
  Clio
Sorry, you have got this so wrong, there was always a 5mm gap between the top cap in the engine bay and the turret, and the strut assembly rotates as one.
Hi Steve,

I don't think the tops parts on mine move if you go lock to lock?

I will check and report back however.

Thanks,
 
  Clio
Hi
Having checked, yes there is a small gap as you said there should be.
So what was the reason for design change? As mentioned I don't seem to have any problems with the original design?
 
  dan's cast offs.
Where do you get the kyb ones and how much are they?

Europarts don't seem to list any top mounts for my 172.

i get them from local factors i've been using for about 30 years. you can get them on ebay easy enough. i normally use febi for mounts etc but kyb make the dampers for the sport and they had them in stock so went for them instead of ordering the febi.
 

pappasmurf

ClioSport Club Member
  Arctic Blue 182
Does anybody have a link for the correct 182 Febi full top mounts kit?
Pretty sure im gonna need to replace mine sharpish and if I can avoid having to do it twice, it would be appreciated.
 


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