ClioSport.net
Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
-
When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.
Got caster yo
- Thread starter Chip-mk1
- Start date
I love this little car. 
I understand the use of castor, but it does make your car look broke .
.
Last edited:
TTRS & V50
How and why ? Scrubbing ?
Nickson
ClioSport Club Member
Pah! Awesome Chip
JoshOm3
ClioSport Club Member
Cup'182/Rs2'd Trophy
Why do this?
Improves handling iirc.
How did you do it then chip? Moving the balljoint or offsetting the arm itself?
I love this little car.
You need to have another drive of it now mate. It's totally different to when you tried it, just effortlessly lays the power down now and tracks straight as a die
I have modified the bottom arm to sit the balljoint much further forward.
Will stick some pics up when I'm on laptop not phone.
That's an offer I can't refuse chip! It will just confirm my ambition to have mine 'improved' D
Point = handles better
As I only use the car on track mainly that's a useful thing to me.
Ph1 172 & Clio DCi
I love this little car.
Me too. It's fooking epic! I'm so glad chip brought it and has done the improvements it so needed.
Ph1 172 & Clio DCi
Care to explain.
It has improved steering feel, it has a more positive self centring action which improves braking stability and the dynamic introduction of camber when steering means I can run less static camber which helps with straight line grip, which with over 250 bhp I benefit from a lot in the lower gears.
Here is how I did it, nicked from the other thread about caster:
It gives 35mm more caster done like I have done it, compared to a ph1 wishbone.
However, you could actually add another 15mm to that if you accepted slightly losing some track, by elongating the inner hole backwards instead of outwards but I didnt want the extra caster enough to compromise a few mm of track width to get it.
This is how I did it:
Drilled a new outer hole, and elongated the existing inner one slightly, and trial fitted the balljoint both there and in the original place so I could take some measurements.
Then I plug welded the original outer hole (TBH you really dont need to im sure, there was quite a bit of meat between the holes but I can so I did)
Then I used a power file to make sure there were no highpoints that the balljoint might touch and not sit flat
Then I gave it a quick paint just to stop it rusting
Then while I was stood around feeling quite pleased with myself with how it had turned out (Im no fabricator TBH, just do bits and pieces) Mike from MWM who is staying with us this weekend proceeded to do just as neat a job (better if anything) of the other one in half the time, damn him and his expert welding skills, lol
It gives 35mm more caster done like I have done it, compared to a ph1 wishbone.
However, you could actually add another 15mm to that if you accepted slightly losing some track, by elongating the inner hole backwards instead of outwards but I didnt want the extra caster enough to compromise a few mm of track width to get it.
This is how I did it:
Drilled a new outer hole, and elongated the existing inner one slightly, and trial fitted the balljoint both there and in the original place so I could take some measurements.
Then I plug welded the original outer hole (TBH you really dont need to im sure, there was quite a bit of meat between the holes but I can so I did)
Then I used a power file to make sure there were no highpoints that the balljoint might touch and not sit flat
Then I gave it a quick paint just to stop it rusting
Then while I was stood around feeling quite pleased with myself with how it had turned out (Im no fabricator TBH, just do bits and pieces) Mike from MWM who is staying with us this weekend proceeded to do just as neat a job (better if anything) of the other one in half the time, damn him and his expert welding skills, lol
Sounds really good. In a yes or no answer if you didn't know it had been modified and drove it would you be able to tell the difference over a standard 1*2 on the road?
Lol at the thread title
Good work Chip! I thought about doing this yesterday when doing my ball joints but then realised the pure plate that I have welded on will stop me getting access to the new bolt so I will do it over winter instead! Hope you don't mind me stealing your idea
Good work Chip! I thought about doing this yesterday when doing my ball joints but then realised the pure plate that I have welded on will stop me getting access to the new bolt so I will do it over winter instead! Hope you don't mind me stealing your idea
If you replaced all the rod ends and ball joints and rack bushes etc so both were back to as good as they were from the factory first then did this to just one of them and drove both the change in how it feels on turn in is enough to notice.
Its the reason a cup feels more direct than a non cup, but this is done by a bigger amount than on the cup.
Lol at the thread title
Good work Chip! I thought about doing this yesterday when doing my ball joints but then realised the pure plate that I have welded on will stop me getting access to the new bolt so I will do it over winter instead! Hope you don't mind me stealing your idea
The whole reason this forum appeals to me to use in the first place is for us to be able to exchange ideas to improve our cars so we enjoy them more so no it wouldn't bother me at all, in fact it would make me think it was worth taking the time to share the info
same for mike too. You could use a die grinder to enlarge the hole in the pure plates enough to get the bolts in but it would prevent you from welding the old holes up due to lack of access. I don't believe that having the holes there would cause an issue though, especially with all the extra righty you have in the first place from having the plates there to begin with.
If anything you would expect the caster change to slightly worsen torque steer but the fact I now need less static camber appears to have at least cancelled that out as it certainly feels no worse and if I had to say one way or the other I'd say overall it feels better from that perspective now but it could be the change in steering feel is misleading me with that.
Thanks ChipThe whole reason this forum appeals to me to use in the first place is for us to be able to exchange ideas to improve our cars so we enjoy them more so no it wouldn't bother me at all, in fact it would make me think it was worth taking the time to share the info
You could use a die grinder to enlarge the hole in the pure plates enough to get the bolts in but it would prevent you from welding the old holes up due to lack of access. I don't believe that having the holes there would cause an issue though, especially with all the extra righty you have in the first place from having the plates there to begin with.
Yes I was thinking to take them off the car and then re drill the hole in the top plate too, I suppose using the same bolt type as you loses the captive ability of the bolt so ball joint changes need the arm dropping but I think its a great way of running more caster
Evo 5 RS
Simple but ace at the same time! Awesome Frankenstein car this
bozothenutter
ClioSport Club Member
I'm gonna try this too, still have a set of arms lying about waiting to have powerflex bushes fitted...might aswell.
Any issues with the tempering (if there is any) on the arm after welding?
Any issues with the tempering (if there is any) on the arm after welding?
Simple but ace at the same time! Awesome Frankenstein car this
Ha ha. Glad you approve.
I can find no evidence of any heat treating and nor would I expect any on a pressed arm of deliberately sacrificial construction tbh mate.
Increased steering weight, which of course adds wear to power steering pump and other steering components etc.
But for the record renault DID do this, just not quite as much as I have, but on the cup they have added about 1/2 as much extra caster by exactly the same principle.
What they did by the looks of it, was to add as much as they could while still using the original captive style bolts, they probably werent prepared to swap to a caphead and have to have the lines change tool to fit the different parts etc.
