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Interested in the answer to this as well, I have exactly the same code on mine having finally got around to checking it today.
Have cleared it so will see if it comes back. Is this the knock sensor below the fuel rail guard?
72k service and a few bits..
Brembo Max grooved front discs
Renault rear discs and new shims
New front and rear OE Brembo pads
Goodridge braided 'Phantom' brake lines
New coolant header bottle
Cam belt
Aux belt
Dephaser pulley
End caps
Water pump
Oil change and new filter
Pollen filter
Brake...
After reading through the whole thread and seeing all the comments about the noise, i'm not overly keen on too much of a RAWRR so might stick with ordering the ITG panel instead :grin: i do quite a bit of motorway driving so it'd drive me and everyone else in the cars nuts having to listen to...
IIRC, it needs to be 'un-clipped' internally before it can be removed. There are nodules on the outside of the motor casing which fit into the keyed lip on the headlight, once the arm is detached internally you can then twist the module to it's unlocked position and pull it away. Might be worth...
Found the silver finish on some of the cheap ones wasn't great. It's worth punting a bit extra and getting branded bulbs imo. Osram do clear indicator bulbs but they again come at a bit of a premium
APC (as suggested above).
What model you go for depends on your requirements. Check how much power the PC requires (plus anything else you wanted to attach) and spec the device accordingly.
You don't want to overspec it as it's a waste of money and energy.
I'm pretty sure i've read somewhere that the Osram LED's don't include the CANBUS resistors.. That's not a problem for the Clio though :)
These 501's are designed for interior applications only
I've accepted loosing the fade in/out (dimming) feature is probably going to a given if i want more light output.
Buying LED's off eBay is always a bit hit and miss. Least if i spend a bit of money on a decent product that's been engineered for the application intended i might see better...
There's a general perception that it's a young mans car.
That's why i have one, i'm 30 and driving around it in takes a good 10 years off.
I love my 182, it never fails to put a smile on my face.
I digress, i didn't meant to hijack..
I forgot to mention on the end since fitting the LED's i notice the same dim glow as you mention. This wasn't the case when using the SMD's.
I initially "upgraded" my interior map/reading 501's for white SMD's, immediately noticing the amount of heat they kicked off when left on for an extended period of time.
The heat was actually causing them to flicker! Another problem was they didn't give the dimming effect of a conventional...
These boxes are locked to the car they're used with initially.
If you've brought it 2nd hand from somebody and they've already used it for programming their own car then you'll need an unlock code from Fastchip. That's my understanding of the official process and your situation anyway :)...
You will loose the display (only the clock and temperature will remain when using an aftermarket headunit), stalk adapters are available separately for most head units.
I've had 2 ph2 5's in the past (a tungey and a raider), both never failed to put a massive smile on my face. A friend of mine has had 4.
Great little cars, i'd love another one but i don't have the room.. :(
I can only talk for my 182 but it takes a fraction of the time to drop from half a tank to 1.5bar(s) that it takes to go from 1.5 to 1. I don't think the gauge is particularly accurate, whether i'm alone in this i've no idea (i haven't done a great deal of research as i've grown used to it), i...