182 CV joints

jackdaviesUK · Sep 22, 2013

Hi there,

I've searched various threads but with no definitive answer. Both my CV joints are knackered however I've been told you need complete driveshafts to replace them? I've read that some people have managed to change the joint itself so could anyone send me a web link or phone number to buy the appropriate joints if poss please?

Thanks in advance

Bearclaw · Oct 1, 2015

Hey,
I've been doing loads of research and I've found out its better to replace the entire driveshaft. Many problems can occur trying to take off the CV joint apparently. Try J&R they will ask you you're reg and will be able to tell you which driveshaft you need.

Craig · Oct 2, 2015

If it's a cup packed one I think only Renault sell them.

Briv6 · Oct 2, 2015

Once you re pack the cv boots it's only matter of time before get trouble again . Really is easier and better to fit new ones . £120 from Renault on an exchange for old ones .

STEVE.M · Oct 2, 2015

jackdaviesUK said:
Hi there,

I've searched various threads but with no definitive answer. Both my CV joints are knackered however I've been told you need complete driveshafts to replace them? I've read that some people have managed to change the joint itself so could anyone send me a web link or phone number to buy the appropriate joints if poss please?

Thanks in advance

Try a branch of Andrew Page.I bought an supposedly only availlable from Renault driveshaft from them,and it is a perfect fit.
I`ll check tomorrow to see if they do just an outer CV with boot for my own car.
It`s about time Renault are obliged to put up an online EPC under the freedom of information act.
PM your reg,and I can check for your 182

Bearclaw · Oct 3, 2015

I'll be fitting mine this weekend, so i'll let you know how these drive shafts turn out.

STEVE.M · Oct 3, 2015

Craig said:
If it's a cup packed one I think only Renault sell them.

Just got back from my local AP.
Shaftec do not list any outer CV joints,but have RH 440mm CUP shafts available,R209AL (LEFT) & R209AR (RIGHT),for 172 & 182 CUPS.
The shafts are 10mm shorter for STANDARD 172ph2 & 182 are R218AL (LEFT) & R218AR (RIGHT) @ 430mm length for the rh..
They also list PH1 172 shafts,though I did not get the Part nos as they were closing up.
All are priced around £70 i/c VAT,with a 2 year warranty.If you get quoted more,ask for a price adjustment.
I`ve seen genuine cup RH shafts priced at over £200,so this should be of interest to some of you.
I have read of some problems in the past with applications,but they have had 8 year to get their product range in order.
As I said last night,the R218AR rh I fitted was spot on with no problems at speed or on corners.

T.Trophy · Oct 3, 2015

You can get CV joints on there own have a look at this old thread.

http://www.cliosport.net/threads/cv-joints.711303/#post-10087437

I'm only at 441bhp at the moment and not had any problems with them

STEVE.M · Oct 3, 2015

T.Trophy said:
You can get CV joints on there own have a look at this old thread.

http://www.cliosport.net/threads/cv-joints.711303/#post-10087437

I'm only at 441bhp at the moment and not had any problems with them

If I read that correctly,this will fit the 23t clio hub spline,but not the OE shaft,what use is that to most owners on here?
441 bhp?are you trolling?
Strange that the only Google search result for SCV370 is your 2013 post!

T.Trophy · Oct 3, 2015

LoL @ Trolling, I took the old CV joints out of my 2005 Clio Trophy and took them into shaftec in Birmingham and that's what they gave me. Didn't realise there was any difference across the range.

Some of my old threads below, 441bhp is without VVT, back on the dyno Friday to see what she will do with VVT

http://www.cliosport.net/threads/turbo-trophy-rstuning.515078/

http://www.cliosport.net/threads/turbotrophy-update.536356/

Craig · Oct 3, 2015

Lol only 441bhp. I bet that's cracking to drive

STEVE.M · Oct 4, 2015

Craig said:
Lol only 441bhp. I bet that's cracking to drive

Is insane is the word you were looking for?
I think Steve (T.TROPHY) is more interested in fettling than driving,as it seems to break something on a regular basis,which is hardly suprising.

T.Trophy · Oct 4, 2015

Your right, it's the planning and tinkering I enjoy the most. But apart from the gearbox issues with the JC5 each conversion has been spot on. I'm using the ND0 Box now and have done 3k without any issues. I'm sure it'll blow up on the dyno now that I've said that though........

STEVE.M · Oct 4, 2015

T.Trophy said:
Your right, it's the planning and tinkering I enjoy the most. But apart from the gearbox issues with the JC5 each conversion has been spot on. I'm using the ND0 Box now and have done 3k without any issues. I'm sure it'll blow up on the dyno now that I've said that though........

Respect,I had no idea that even a forged F4R could be pushed to this level,and for what you have put into it.
Briliant British approach to developement,pump it up,see what breaks,fix that & pump it up again.Ad infinitum.
I`m very happy with the factory output from my engine,but have spent more than twice what I paid for the car to sort the things that needed doing to preserve it for my continued use & improved driving pleasure.
I stilll have a list of things to do when finances allow.Each improvement reveals a new weakness.
One thing that is apparent is that if you do crave more power,NA cams & independant throttle bodies @ close to £5k with set up & being lucky to get 215 brake is a no brainer.
Hope you latest upgrade holds together,and if you armour plate the bulkhead,I`d like a ride:smile:

T.Trophy · Oct 4, 2015

The only thing I'm not 100% happy with is the gear box at the moment. I wanted to stick with the ND0 to keep equal length shafts to help with torque steer and I opted for a DCi box with an LSD. But it was obviously designed with 4 to 5k gear changes in mind. My 7.8k changes are a bit of a struggle....

STEVE.M · Oct 5, 2015

T.Trophy said:
The only thing I'm not 100% happy with is the gear box at the moment. I wanted to stick with the ND0 to keep equal length shafts to help with torque steer and I opted for a DCi box with an LSD. But it was obviously designed with 4 to 5k gear changes in mind. My 7.8k changes are a bit of a struggle....

Maximum torque appears to be flat at 4500-5500 rpm.Try short changing?

Bearclaw · Oct 6, 2015

I've installed my new ones, and they are perfect! barely cost me anything too!

STEVE.M · Oct 6, 2015

Bearclaw said:
I've installed my new ones, and they are perfect! barely cost me anything too!

Good to hear that.
These were the J&R`s @ £49.95 each?
Thing is what`s your car,as this really about 172/182 shafts/cv`s?

Bearclaw · Oct 7, 2015

They were £26.00 each. The car is 2001 Clio Mk2 1.2 16V. The driveshafts would fit a range of cars, plus they're been made much stronger. Only thing that I can think of which was awkward was filling up the gearbox. Everything else was simple.

STEVE.M · Oct 7, 2015

Bearclaw said:
They were £26.00 each. The car is 2001 Clio Mk2 1.2 16V. The driveshafts would fit a range of cars, plus they're been made much stronger. Only thing that I can think of which was awkward was filling up the gearbox. Everything else was simple.

Was that from J&R?Posted this pic before,but for those that missed it.

Easy way to fill gearbox.

Bearclaw · Oct 7, 2015

Yeah from J&R. Seriously such good quality. The customer service wasn't too bad either if anyone cares about that sort of thing? That hose would been perfect, I just flattened the bottle a bit and crammed my hand down. Think it was just under 3.5L worth I put in. Next job is front fog lights, not working, need to check if any voltage is applied to the bulbs, might be simple as new bulbs. Although the warning light for front fog lights doesn't light up either?

STEVE.M · Oct 7, 2015

Bearclaw said:
Yeah from J&R. Seriously such good quality. The customer service wasn't too bad either if anyone cares about that sort of thing? That hose would been perfect, I just flattened the bottle a bit and crammed my hand down. Think it was just under 3.5L worth I put in. Next job is front fog lights, not working, need to check if any voltage is applied to the bulbs, might be simple as new bulbs. Although the warning light for front fog lights doesn't light up either?

Interesting that they have received a slagging elsewhere,but then some people have a vested interest.I know someone running them on a 1.2 with no problems.
I`d check if there is fuse for the fogs in the LH end of the dashboard as a good place to start.

Diagro · Oct 8, 2015

STEVE.M said:
Interesting that they have received a slagging elsewhere,but then some people have a vested interest.I know someone running them on a 1.2 with no problems.
I`d check if there is fuse for the fogs in the LH end of the dashboard as a good place to start.

J&R get a bashing by 172 and 182 owners because their CV Boot on the drivers side is too wide, This causes it to fowl on the engine block and split.
Easy to fix, you just replace the Boot with a Narrow one for £10 off ebay, or you trim 8-12mm off the engine block (which is what i did as it was a little pointy out bit that should have been trimmed at the factory)

Its really unfair to bash the actual shaft due to a simple boot issue, Loads of people refuse to use them just based on that and would prefer to buy a shaft at nearly 3x the cost and 1/2 the warranty.

STEVE.M · Oct 8, 2015

Diagro said:
J&R get a bashing by 172 and 182 owners because their CV Boot on the drivers side is too wide, This causes it to fowl on the engine block and split.
Easy to fix, you just replace the Boot with a Narrow one for £10 off ebay, or you trim 8-12mm off the engine block (which is what i did as it was a little pointy out bit that should have been trimmed at the factory)

Its really unfair to bash the actual shaft due to a simple boot issue, Loads of people refuse to use them just based on that and would prefer to buy a shaft at nearly 3x the cost and 1/2 the warranty.

How long ago was that?@EDGES fitted a RH J&R shaft in January this year,and commented there was no clearance problem with the boot.
Perhaps they have changed the boot for a smaller diameter one.

STEVE.M · Oct 8, 2015

T.Trophy said:
You can get CV joints on there own have a look at this old thread.

http://www.cliosport.net/threads/cv-joints.711303/#post-10087437

Sorry Steve,SCV370 does not seem to exist,but I`m sure whatever Shaftec supplied would be of interest to others with boosted clio`s.
How did the dyno go with V V T.Spaced it because otherwise it looks like WT,which was a bit of a head scratcher till I worked it out.

T.Trophy · Oct 8, 2015

Well that's disapointing mate, that was the genuine part number that they supplied to me but as you pointed out it was in 2013.

Dyno is on Mon now so will let you know how I get on.

Diagro · Oct 9, 2015

STEVE.M said:
How long ago was that?@EDGES fitted a RH J&R shaft in January this year,and commented there was no clearance problem with the boot.
Perhaps they have changed the boot for a smaller diameter one.

Was say 8 months ago now?
Mabey they made a mistake on my boot and they have changed it?

What i found was the boot was actually clearing it, but was very soft so when it spun it would flare out and catch the engine block

loggyboy · Oct 9, 2015

When I had this issue on mine I simply got a grinder on the bit of the block the boot catches on. It's a pointless bit of oversize casting so is an easy and safe mod.

loggyboy · Oct 9, 2015

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182 CV joints

jackdaviesUK

Bearclaw

Craig

Briv6

STEVE.M

Bearclaw

STEVE.M

T.Trophy

STEVE.M

T.Trophy

Craig

STEVE.M

T.Trophy

STEVE.M

T.Trophy

STEVE.M

Bearclaw

STEVE.M

Bearclaw

STEVE.M

Bearclaw

STEVE.M

Diagro

STEVE.M

STEVE.M

T.Trophy

Diagro

loggyboy

loggyboy

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