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as the dash is on hold untill i can think of some way of sorting it out..i have decided to get the seat and harnesses fitted. afer much '*****ing' about, wev finally decided on the seating positions and height for both, we marked all 8 holes for the side mounts+after attempting to drill two of the holes using tintop HSS drillbits, each time the drill bit would melt as the steel is so thick so back to machine mart! Bought some stupidly expensive metal cutting bits, we then piloted each hole with a 6mm,and followed through with the 8.
We then replaced the side mounts onto the frames +secured with 12.9 m8 cap bolts, 8.8 m8 nyloc nuts,2x 12mm m8 spacers+then 2x 20mm m8 spacers per fixing.
Next up was to fit 2 lower eyelets on the under side of the lower sub frame, to do this we spaced two 10mm holes on the front lip, trimmed down the eyelet backing plates to fit in the frame, put the eyelet through the hole then secured to the backing plate, nipped them up nice+tight facing the right way.
We then fitted the 2 rear central eyelets from under the exhaust tunnel in the original seat frame mounting points.
We then secured the outer harness to the shell on the original seatbelt mounting using the original 10.9 cap bolt.
With all these in place, we placed each seat in its respective side mount +secured the seat with a 12.9 cap bolts and 20mm m8 spacers. All torqued up to 45nm
We then removed the rear harness mounting buckle from the strap, wrapped the strap around the rear of the role cage harness bar and relooped into the original buckle.
We then adjusted all the harnesses, ensuring that they were all equal+double checked all the torque settings.
Seating position which we have chosen is perfect imo, cant wait to get on the open road!
Also trial fitted the new omp wheel and boss.
We then replaced the side mounts onto the frames +secured with 12.9 m8 cap bolts, 8.8 m8 nyloc nuts,2x 12mm m8 spacers+then 2x 20mm m8 spacers per fixing.
Next up was to fit 2 lower eyelets on the under side of the lower sub frame, to do this we spaced two 10mm holes on the front lip, trimmed down the eyelet backing plates to fit in the frame, put the eyelet through the hole then secured to the backing plate, nipped them up nice+tight facing the right way.
We then fitted the 2 rear central eyelets from under the exhaust tunnel in the original seat frame mounting points.
We then secured the outer harness to the shell on the original seatbelt mounting using the original 10.9 cap bolt.
With all these in place, we placed each seat in its respective side mount +secured the seat with a 12.9 cap bolts and 20mm m8 spacers. All torqued up to 45nm
We then removed the rear harness mounting buckle from the strap, wrapped the strap around the rear of the role cage harness bar and relooped into the original buckle.
We then adjusted all the harnesses, ensuring that they were all equal+double checked all the torque settings.
Seating position which we have chosen is perfect imo, cant wait to get on the open road!
Also trial fitted the new omp wheel and boss.
lol can you ever please anyone on here,
ive tried the bilsines... not for me!
anyway.. the ones im having made are out of this world
lol can you ever please anyone on here,
ive tried the bilsines... not for me!
anyway.. the ones im having made are out of this world
Just get some proflex, ohlin or similar if you want to spend silly money
Nice good progress recently!
Christopher
ClioSport Club Member
Z4M
that interior looks awesome!
stevo172-RWD
ClioSport Club Member
clio 172 rwd
looks cold.
but RAW
but RAW
Christopher
ClioSport Club Member
Z4M
lol
100 hours of your life... boom
100 hours of your life... boom
Tesla MP3 2021
he doesnt know lol
MK7 GTD & Mini GP
the suspense is killing me...:rasp:
Hondata'd EP3 Type R
Yes a Chav ICE place will be able to knock you up a dash, They arent cheap mind, Mine was £1200, I imagine you wont need anything so complex, And i had mine painted, So finish had to be 100%, If your flocking they can save alot as money as the finish doesnt have to be as perfect for trimming.
good progress today
started with fitting the whiteline 1.2 neg camber shims.
I had alredy removed one brake assembly and stub axel off when i was looking to have custom shims made,
after removing the otherside i fitted both shims to the axel and bolted both stub axels back on.... then torqued the 4 nuts to the correct NM.
at the start of the thred it was pointed out that the rear disks were the wrong way round (direction of the grooves) so whilst both brake assembly's were off i swaped the disks round!
i then re-bolted the rest of the calliper, brake line union and re-fitting the mintex pads with good helping of copper grease!
with the rear brakes assembled and whilst working on this part of the car i decided to fit the rear LEDA's
the quality is second to none! 20 mins later the rears were fitted!
i fitted the cover cones inside the car to keep it looking tidy
started with fitting the whiteline 1.2 neg camber shims.
I had alredy removed one brake assembly and stub axel off when i was looking to have custom shims made,
after removing the otherside i fitted both shims to the axel and bolted both stub axels back on.... then torqued the 4 nuts to the correct NM.
at the start of the thred it was pointed out that the rear disks were the wrong way round (direction of the grooves) so whilst both brake assembly's were off i swaped the disks round!
i then re-bolted the rest of the calliper, brake line union and re-fitting the mintex pads with good helping of copper grease!
with the rear brakes assembled and whilst working on this part of the car i decided to fit the rear LEDA's
the quality is second to none! 20 mins later the rears were fitted!
i fitted the cover cones inside the car to keep it looking tidy
Actually lolled at the axe picture!
