Upgrading Audio 182

[JakeyCUK]

Hi all, I have decided to overhaul the standard 182 ICE! I have done a few installs in the past but really simple stuff like coaxials and active subs!

I really want to stick with components up front but cannot get my head around how to install?! All I see are people talking about rewiring the whole loom but I cannot understand why this is necessary.
In my head I need to do the following:
Remove standard tweeters from pillars and woofers from doors. Install new tweetesr, in between the tweetesr and woofers I need the crossovers mounting somewhere. Then fit new spades onto the existing loom and attach connect the woofer, then into the HU with an ISO adapter?

I will be amping this system and installing a sub in the rear, also I will be removing the rear coaxials but I am sure if I get my head around the above then this will be easy to figure out.

Thanks for helping

 

[Paul.M]

I have a false floor that I made for a clio I owned ages ago with a cut out for a sub box, it could do with a good hoover but if you want it for the above you are more than welcome to have it, it's just collecting dust at present

 

[JakeyCUK]

I'm actually going to be mounting the amp under a seat I think but thanks anyway pal! Saw you about the other day, flashed and waved at you but you went full ignore mode on me :expressionless:

 

[Steven103]

Headunit (Clio II is ISO so no adaptor needed, just the stereo's own propriety loom) to crossover. Crossover to tweeter & crossover to door. That's why you need new wiring. There's no way of getting a signal from the crossover back to the tweeter on the standard loom.

A neat way of doing it would be to put the crossover inside the car just before the door loom. Then you don't have to butcher the standard door grommets to feed new wire back into the car towards the tweeter. Needless to say you'd have to be extra confident on which wires you're cutting (so that you don't splice the heated mirrors into your front speaker loom etc) and you may have to partially remove the dash to get decent access to the standard loom before the door.

It can be difficult, but you don't need to remove the dash to get tweeters in & out. Just need patience and a decent range of small flat headed screw drivers or something to pry with.

 

[JakeyCUK]

Headunit (Clio II is ISO so no adaptor needed, just the stereo's own propriety loom) to crossover. Crossover to tweeter & crossover to door. That's why you need new wiring. There's no way of getting a signal from the crossover back to the tweeter on the standard loom.

A neat way of doing it would be to put the crossover inside the car just before the door loom. Then you don't have to butcher the standard door grommets to feed new wire back into the car towards the tweeter. Needless to say you'd have to be extra confident on which wires you're cutting (so that you don't splice the heated mirrors into your front speaker loom etc) and you may have to partially remove the dash to get decent access to the standard loom before the door.

It can be difficult, but you don't need to remove the dash to get tweeters in & out. Just need patience and a decent range of small flat headed screw drivers or something to pry with.

Thanks very much that makes perfect sense! Also just noticed all the typos I made on the first post lol :anguished:
IF I used coaxials would this be fine on the existing wiring? Also would the OEM tweeters still work?
After seeing a lot of diagrams it looks as though if you are using an amp then the front speakers will go woofer+tweeter>crossover>amp. So seeing as though I was amping would this not negate the need to rewire?


Thanks again, I have looked over so many posts to find what you wrote!

 

[JakeyCUK]

http://s220.photobucket.com/user/diss_50/media/Diss_50.jpg.html

This is the diagram I am referring too, it matches the exact set up I want so if I was to follow that diagram then do I need to connect any wires to my HU at all?! Got myself pretty confused lol

 

[JakeyCUK]

bump, thanks

 

[Goodj]

set of these in the front (are pretty much drop-in)
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/spe...t/pioneer-ts-q131c-13cm-custom-fit-components
Then use an ISO intersection to cut your amp speaker-outs into the standard vehicle loom (unless you're going over, say, 75w RMS PER CHANNEL)
That's your speaker wiring done. Fitting the sub is almost easier than walking

 

[JakeyCUK]

Hi, thanks for the reply. I am actually after something a little beefier than these to be honest. I was in 172 a while back with these installed and I wasn't too keen, but what is the score on wiring if I am amping the fronts? I can just leave the existing wiring in the doors right and wire from comps to amp? No need for rewiring then?

Thanks again goodj

 

[Goodj]

Up to about 75w RMS you can get away with tapping into the factory wires by cutting into the loom out of the back of your stereo.
Any more than that and you'll want new, higher-grade wire.

From my experience, the standard speakers, powered by an alpine head unit only, with a sub in the boot, was more than sufficient to be a social embarrassment.

 

[JakeyCUK]

Up to about 75w RMS you can get away with tapping into the factory wires by cutting into the loom out of the back of your stereo.
Any more than that and you'll want new, higher-grade wire.

From my experience, the standard speakers, powered by an alpine head unit only, with a sub in the boot, was more than sufficient to be a social embarrassment.

Right NOW I understand it all lol, the reason I will need to do some wire messing is because I need to connect the tweeter to the sub which runs through the door rubbers! Got it! I will be getting some comps at about 75 RMS so I will do a rewire then. I will only need to get a new wire from the tweeter into the woofer anyway, I will just leave all the existing loom in place if possible!

Thanks a lot for your help pal it's all clear now!

 

[Goodj]

I've never tried doing a tweeter & door speaker swap,
The door card ones are simple enough, but some say the tweeters are a dash-out job

 

[JakeyCUK]

I've never tried doing a tweeter & door speaker swap,
The door card ones are simple enough, but some say the tweeters are a dash-out job 😧

I've actually removed the dash before on my old 182 and it was actually pretty straight forward! I've planned this all out in my head but no doubt I will be out until dark. I am a little bit confused as to why people say it's so hard to route a new cable through the door grommet mind you, it LOOKS like it should be pretty simple lol
I will probably do a write up for the guides section when I come to do it as I know a lot of people have been asking really similar questions to mine.

 

[Goodj]

Good luck fella.
Just keep the volume down in civilised areas.....and northern cities

 

[Steven103]

I am a little bit confused as to why people say it's so hard to route a new cable through the door grommet mind you, it LOOKS like it should be pretty simple lol

Hah, just you wait...

You'd think it'd be a big hole, with a big grommet and have a big bunch of wires going through. But no. It's a grommet bonded to the outside of a 40 ish pin plug. IIRC there are some spare slots but no pins in said spare slots. So people tend to carefully drill out the centre of where 10 of these "spare pins" would be & shove the wire through there. No doubt some coat hangers will be required as the grommet is sort of "S" shaped shaped.

Definitely get good quality speaker wire which won't corrode and break the circuit as soon as a bit of rainwater accumulates. Bear in mind speaker depth - the Clio doorcard has a rain guard to stop the speaker getting dripped on which means you can't fit massively deep woofers. The tweeters are some bizarre oval shape whereas the new tweeters will undoubtedly be circular (unless you buy the Pioneer Custom Fits or Perfect Fits - but that's another discussion) so you'll have to have them dangling loose in the dash or find some way to wedge them in place. Some have stuffed their dash full of "no more nails." Maybe lots of double sided cushioned tape. I bent some thin and springy aluminium into a cone shape \_/ and pushed the tweeter into the cone and the cone into the dash.

 

[Goodj]

Can you push the original tweeters out of their fitting and attach the new tweeter to that?

 

[Steven103]

You can't "push" it out per say, IIRC they're glue-gunned very enthusiastically in to the oval shape housing. But if you're happy to drill, file, sand, oven, dremel & generally butcher the old tweeters in a very controlled & precise manor then yeah that could work quite nicely.

 

[Goodj]

You make it sound so appealing

 

[JakeyCUK]

Good luck fella.
Just keep the volume down in civilised areas.....and northern cities

I live in Blackpool, civilized has been removed from all dictionaries here!

Hah, just you wait...

You'd think it'd be a big hole, with a big grommet and have a big bunch of wires going through. But no. It's a grommet bonded to the outside of a 40 ish pin plug. IIRC there are some spare slots but no pins in said spare slots. So people tend to carefully drill out the centre of where 10 of these "spare pins" would be & shove the wire through there. No doubt some coat hangers will be required as the grommet is sort of "S" shaped shaped.

Definitely get good quality speaker wire which won't corrode and break the circuit as soon as a bit of rainwater accumulates. Bear in mind speaker depth - the Clio doorcard has a rain guard to stop the speaker getting dripped on which means you can't fit massively deep woofers. The tweeters are some bizarre oval shape whereas the new tweeters will undoubtedly be circular (unless you buy the Pioneer Custom Fits or Perfect Fits - but that's another discussion) so you'll have to have them dangling loose in the dash or find some way to wedge them in place. Some have stuffed their dash full of "no more nails." Maybe lots of double sided cushioned tape. I bent some thin and springy aluminium into a cone shape \_/ and pushed the tweeter into the cone and the cone into the dash.

Well it sounds a lot harder than I thought it would be lol I guess I will just have to get an early start! One of those things I need to see to understand how hard it is, sounds like these Clio's aren't the best for ICE replacement. I will probably buy membership soon and have a browse through some of the guides as pictures speak a thousand words!

Also my intended speakers are 58mm, I heard anything under 60mm should be fine for depth?
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/spe...ms/5-inch-comp-13cm/infinity-reference-5030cs

Thanks for everything

 

[Paul.M]

I'm actually going to be mounting the amp under a seat I think but thanks anyway pal! Saw you about the other day, flashed and waved at you but you went full ignore mode on me :expressionless:

My bad! Where abouts were we? Must have been in my own little world there haha

 

[JakeyCUK]

My bad! Where abouts were we? Must have been in my own little world there haha

lol IIRC you were driving towards fylde coast hospital (near the top of St Walburgers Hill)

 

[Gus]

@JakeyCUK
You dont have to make it so hard on your self. I did a new stereo install a few months ago replacing the tweeters and door speaker. I didnt need to route new wire. I chose the Alpine SPR 50c components and the tweeters come with a crossover ( for just the tweeters.) It was a case of removing dash, removing old tweeter, aralditing the new tweeter on to a new platform (cut up cliosport members card lol) as it wont fit where old one sits. then connect the 2 wires from the old tweeter to the new crossover and then connect that crossover to the new tweeter. Fiddle a little with the crossover settings (jumpers). Dash back on. then just connected the door speakers to the existing wires. I did use a renault connector to spade connectors for the doors to make things easy. It all sounds fantastic.

I did the same as you and procastinated over all the ins and outs of the wiring.

 

[Gus]

also the SPR 50s are also 58mm I believe and there was 2mm spare without having to hack up the plastic back cover.

 

[JakeyCUK]

@JakeyCUK
You dont have to make it so hard on your self. I did a new stereo install a few months ago replacing the tweeters and door speaker. I didnt need to route new wire. I chose the Alpine SPR 50c components and the tweeters come with a crossover ( for just the tweeters.) It was a case of removing dash, removing old tweeter, aralditing the new tweeter on to a new platform (cut up cliosport members card lol) as it wont fit where old one sits. then connect the 2 wires from the old tweeter to the new crossover and then connect that crossover to the new tweeter. Fiddle a little with the crossover settings (jumpers). Dash back on. then just connected the door speakers to the existing wires. I did use a renault connector to spade connectors for the doors to make things easy. It all sounds fantastic.

I did the same as you and procastinated over all the ins and outs of the wiring.

I thought that if you were amping your speakers you shouldn't use the stock wiring as it's very thin? I would happily splice into the original wiring but scared it's gonna give up?

 

[Gus]

Oh, yeah, didnt read the whole thread ha. If its of any use I have the alpine powerpack amp and my wires havent melted.

 

[JakeyCUK]

alpine powerpack amp

hmm maybe, but the amp I will be getting will probably be around 100rms per speaker as they are 75rms each so might not risk it, thanks though! Also nice install

 

[Simon_16v]

Oh, yeah, didnt read the whole thread ha. If its of any use I have the alpine powerpack amp and my wires havent melted.

Have you noticed any difference with this powerpack? I've heard mixed opinions and don't want to waste my money if it only marginal

 

[bozothenutter]

just buy a din speaker adapter/plug and use the to connect to the original wiring.
I'm running a small alpine amp that way and the car has yet to burn down....

 

[Goodj]

the alpine pack is a good piece of kit, and removes the need to piss about with wiring.
Alpine unit with power pack
Pioneer custom-fit drop-in jobbie compoents
decent 200w sub.

That is all you will ever need. May not be as flash as you want, but it's also a good sight cheaper

 

[George182]

the alpine pack is a good piece of kit, and removes the need to piss about with wiring.
Alpine unit with power pack
Pioneer custom-fit drop-in jobbie compoents
decent 200w sub.

That is all you will ever need. May not be as flash as you want, but it's also a good sight cheaper

This is exactly the advice I am following [emoji106]

 

[Goodj]

Good lad.
It gets better too.
If you can live with only a perfectly-loud-enough level of music, you can do away with the alpine power pack and replacement speakers altogether.

Again, this may not be as impressive to people who actually dont care, but it's about £200 saved which could be used on things like...
servicing.
mots
insurance

These aren't cool, and aren't going to get anyone drippng, but they're far more useful

 

[JakeyCUK]

just buy a din speaker adapter/plug and use the to connect to the original wiring.
I'm running a small alpine amp that way and the car has yet to burn down....

hmm I am tempted but it is still worrying... how small? I will be running 150watt RMS @ 2ohm to each side, could be pushing it on thin cable?

 

[Goodj]

hmm I am tempted but it is still worrying... how small? I will be running 150watt RMS @ 2ohm to each side, could be pushing it on thin cable?

yes! That amount of power should really go through some meatier wire than is used at the moment.
The only possible thin you may try to do is use the wires inside the door grommet, and attach new wires either side, but even then you've got a weakpoint.

 

[JakeyCUK]

yes! That amount of power should really go through some meatier wire than is used at the moment.
The only possible thin you may try to do is use the wires inside the door grommet, and attach new wires either side, but even then you've got a weakpoint.

Nah best off avoiding it and just rewire, prepared for that now anyway! save having to dismantle it all at some point should it fail!
Thanks for everyones help!

 

[Goodj]

g'wan lad, bass it oot there