Rear coilover fitting advice needed.

[The Bear]

Okay, got my rear springs, shocks and adjusters through from K-Tec this morning and want to be 100% sure of how the springs and adjusters sit before I start, as its the first time Ive ever fitted something like this and dont want to fudge it.

This is what I have:

http://www.haznick.f2s.com/pics/rearco.jpg

If it was just the springs I could cope with that fine, but its the height adjuster that Im unsure with.

Firstly thats the right way up right? Does it sit in the platforms on the bolt head as in the picture or does that need to be done something with?

Also if both those adjustable discs are spun all the way down thats the rock bottom setting right? Then Im assuming any upward adjustment is made by the bottom of the two cos the spring is sitting on the top one?

Thanks in advance.

 

[caymanr26]

Good question - I would like to know as well - although I shall be gettin someone to fit them for me!

 

[Turkish]

Thats sat the right way. Wind the bottom "nut" down to the bottom of the thread, take the bolt with the washer on off, the unit sits the way up you have it and the bolt and washer bolt up through the hole in the trailing arm to hold it in place. You do away with the lower rubber spring pad. Then you are left with the upper of the two collar nuts to adjust the ride height.

 

[The Bear]

Nice one Loony, exactly what I was after. Though whats the point of having 2 adjustment nuts if the bottom one just sits at the bottom? Maybe itll be clear when I actually do it!!

Now I know that I can fit them, anyone got any tips on measuring height adjustments, i.e making sure both sides are exactly the same height if I need to raise them?

Ive already measured from the centre of my wheels to the arch so I know that height (315mm all round), but would prefer to measure it whilst I do it rather than have the car up and down.

Would simply counting the screwthreads as you go up be exact enough?

 

[Turkish]

Actually thinking about it if there arent grub screws in those collar nuts then the lower one is to lock against the upper so it doesnt move. Either way you want it all the way down at the back so drop it as far down the thread as you can If you dont go all the way down measure the distance between the upper collar that the spring sits on and the rear trailing arm then once its down on the ground check either between the centre of the wheel and the arch or between the sill and the ground (make sure its somewhere flat and level!!) and if theres a difference adjust one side up or down accordingly.

 

[Fred@BTM]

no need to measure the rears, remove the lower adjuster completley, and wind the top one ALL the way down so it sits flush against the beam

youll have to hammer the threaded tubes onto the axle, the the bolt and large washer goes on from underneath

 

[The Bear]

Quote: Originally posted by Fred2001Dynamic on 09 September 2005

youll have to hammer the threaded tubes onto the axle, the the bolt and large washer goes on from underneath

You read my mind. After dismantling one I was just wondering about that.

Though Im not sure what you mean by hammering the threaded tubes onto the axle? Is it necessary? lol.



remove the lower adjuster completley, and wind the top one ALL the way down so it sits flush against the beam



Again, is this necessary or just to get it as low as possible? Ill have to see if the speed bumps round here will let me go all the way down too. Any implications on rear arches, etc when slamming it fully down?

 

[16v_jon]

if you leave the colar on the rear of the car will sit higher than the front (if your dropping it the full 70mm)

 

[The Bear]

I dont mind the back being slightly higher than the front. Its how I had it on my old Pug 306.

 

[Fred@BTM]

when i say hammer, i really mean tap!!!

just remove the lower collar, wack the threaded tube bit on, and bolt it up, then spin the upper platform all the way down = 80-85mm rear drop

it wont scrub

 

[The Bear]

Cheers Fred. Ill give it a go as soon as it dries out here.