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ITB fitment problem



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As can be seen I'm struggling with the 120mm trumpets in my ph1.

Any way of making them work?

Will they work with the filter hitting the underside of the bonnet? Or am I best to go down to 90mm trumpets?
 
  DON'T SEND ME PM'S!!
Which ITBs are they? Jenvey SF's? The filter looks to be mounted quite high up. 120s are TIGHT on a ph2, I'm not sure they'll go on a ph1. 90s and a curved filter will work better for you
 
Ye I think they're SFs.

They definitely angle up off the head, the manifold is at a tiny angle upwards.

With it hitting the bonnet, will I lose performance? Less air flow?

The small grill on a ph1 (cut most away apart from the base into larger piece) looks like it will force the air ulwards
 
  Cup In bits
I didn't realise you were using this filter its been cut to pieces no? That's never going to work even if you change trumpets, the filter has caging inside. Like I have said, machine the manifold ideally, rounded sausage filter and 120's should have more room. Remember when driving forward them trumpets are only going to get higher. Come buy my 90's and I'll lend you my filter if its delivery time your struggling for another filter.
 
I will be changing the filter, but I can't find a 100mm sausage one? Biggest I could see was 65mm which suite the 90mms.

Think I will be taking them mate unless someone has some inside knowledge.
 
  mk1 williams, ep82
you prob wont like this idea, however you could always cut the trumpet and use 90 degree samco hoses to angle the filters down then use individual cone filters??
 
I will be changing the filter, but I can't find a 100mm sausage one? Biggest I could see was 65mm which suite the 90mms.

Think I will be taking them mate unless someone has some inside knowledge.

Can'you just get a deeper backing plate?

I have ktec ones with 120mm trumpets and I'll be needing to remove some of the inside of the bonnet.

 
Morgan has hooked me up with sausage filter, but its actually 120mm so won't really solve any issues im just going to take the 90s off him, have spoke to jenvey all I will lose between them is low down torque so ill survive!

My next issues is mounting the polo radiator! Who's done it and what's the best way?
 
  106GTI / NovaC20LET
Mount it using the front crossmember and the mounting points on the front of rad. run a strip of metal between each point using drill and bolts then drill thru the crossmember parallel with the strips you have made then run 1 larger bolt thru each strip and thru the crossmember, then put the nuts on tighten them up and away you go.
 
Are you selling the 120s?

Maybe, if the offer is right.

Mount it using the front crossmember and the mounting points on the front of rad. run a strip of metal between each point using drill and bolts then drill thru the crossmember parallel with the strips you have made then run 1 larger bolt thru each strip and thru the crossmember, then put the nuts on tighten them up and away you go.

What i was thinking, just wondering if anyone knew a better way!
 
  172
polo rad all i've done is used the rubber feet at the bottom and used a small bent piece of ally plate and used self tapper nut in 2 the cross member and rad, don't want it solid mounted with all metal brackets as the vibration will cause the rad 2 crack... give me 5 mins i'l see if i can get some pics of how mines mounted
 
  106GTI / NovaC20LET
Think that's pretty much best you can do with polo rad as its plastic covered you can't weld any brackets on. I got Corrado/sirroco alloy rad I can sell you, then ya could just tig weld a few brackets on rad, that's what I had to do with my nova's intercooler as that had nowhere to mount to. Although that will require a tig set some ally filler wire and fairly skilled welder so if I was you id prob go with the polo crossmember idea.
 
  106GTI / NovaC20LET
polo rad all i've done is used the rubber feet at the bottom and used a small bent piece of ally plate and used self tapper nut in 2 the cross member and rad, don't want it solid mounted with all metal brackets as the vibration will cause the rad 2 crack... give me 5 mins i'l see if i can get some pics of how mines mounted

2 little rubber grommets or something similar between the crossmember and rad with eliminate the vibration.
 
  172
true but it just seems hassle, when it literally took all of 2mins 2 bend the little bracket i've made and then it has the rubber feet on the bottom 2 take the vibration etc, just trying to upload pics to photobucket now
 
  172
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the hole to the right of where the rad is sitting is where the original Rad used 2 line up with, as you can see i've used the rubber feet to locate the bottom of the rad and also takes up any vibration you'l get, covered a good few K with the rad mounted like this and had no problems
 
  Evo 5 RS
Could of told you they wouldn't fit. 90s are a squeeze on a ph1 bonnet with a decent filter, let a lone 120s. Swoops down lower than the Ph2
 
Could of told you they wouldn't fit. 90s are a squeeze on a ph1 bonnet with a decent filter, let a lone 120s. Swoops down lower than the Ph2

It's fine should sell the 120s for more than getting a set of 90s!

just simpler mate, i have seen the way you mentioned but they hadn't used and rubber grommets anywhere hence why i mentioned the cracking etc which is what put me off about it soon as i saw it

Ye I was thinking very similar to yours mate thanks
 


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