right, rough translation.
Okay, as all know, I have finally made up my mind that it is time for the longed-diff.
I hesitated a long time if this was really something I was quiet in the country.
.. this is not the slightest surgery can be done on a car and I have never been even close to doing something similar before.
Anyway skatteåterbärningen damp into your account and it started to twitch in purchasing the finger. After bore Emil with a few calls to gather the mental strength I decided me.
-Far in the wind!
It is a Quaife QDF6M suited inter alia JC5 boxes. I have had access to an older English-Renault service manual for JC5 boxes. Unfortunately, during this work proved to be incomplete and have some weaknesses especially current performance on a JC5-130 box. Has also been invaluable phone support from professionals Renault-MEK Emil who made this intervention in its financial Phase 1'a. Many thanks! it had not been without your help.
In order to bring down the box, I have to look a little on Whitefish's guide for this which is posted on the CRS forums:
http://forum.clubrenaultsverige.com/viewtopic.php?t=8153
I felt however that there was a lot of gaps produced for all of Renault manual and I thought trying to fill some of these. Hopefully this can inspire more Renault racers to dare on this upgrade. However clarify that this is not intended as a guide, but rather is meant to facilitate a clue if anyone thinking of locking in Clio.
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Stuff that needs to be purchased to mount the difference in a JC5-130 in addition to differentiation (provided you have all the tools):
Växelådsolja, Tran Self NFJ 75W 80 (3.1 liter)
Liquid Loctite thread locking or equivalent
Liquid flänstätning (to merge växelådshalvorna) Loctite 518, 5188 or Wurth 0893574050. Molybydenfett is also needed bla driving axle
Here are the parts you least need to buy to change the differentiation
Shim to differ with the dimensions written on the bags if anyone would like to buy a single Shim. 2525 mm should be assumed by the new diff and old stock, in my set the original 2375 mm. Thinner Shim = tight preload on the bearings.
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This service kit can be ordered if you have a JC5-089 box.
As I skrivt later in the thread was a lot of misery because I had the wrong stuff at first. Renault system referred incorrectly to the property's below even my car with JC5-130 box. This resulted in that I had to tear down the box out of the car and share it again + change one layer in the box shimsa on and hold on and make a fuss.
Service set for JC5-089 gearbox (includes all packing boxes, låsstift, sync rings, gaskets, etc. to the whole box) Renault number: 7701472393Fits thereforenot JC5-130.
Biggest mistake is that the governance of urtrampningslagret / pack box input shaft (the bottom left corner) is wrong. Dispose of Renault sending the wrong stuff.
Here is seen the difference between the incorrectly delivered JC5-089 part with integral gland and the structure sits on JC5-130 where the stock and stuffing box is a unit separate from management. Since I had the wrong parts of my box, unfortunately, we were able to destroy the stock seat to the input shaft. So a new layer will be pressed in the box.
Unfortunately, this means that the input shaft bearings games must shimsas on. Must be one of those "dial" which I have not a clue how to use. But it dissolves enough. No picture on shimsen but the article number is shown below.
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Now to the actual execution
Subframe down. Do not forget to tie up the cooler before you put subframe. The radiator is only in this and can drop from its upper mounts and fall down, I noticed
Right-driving. This can not pull out before the gearbox is unshackled. (support layer attachment takes the block)
Hmm like this will probably not see the link out Oil leak in the coupling house
The link has drawn the attention of oil, see selection. = New link A lightweight flywheel went with the only speed
Flywheel side of the link has fared much better. No oil here.
Mucky box, ready for washing.
Here we see the misery in the coupling housing, oil everywhere. Probably pack box behind urtrampningslagret who leaked.
The box is cleaned and manual open. Time to get started
Femman växelhus picked off (black part on the previous picture) in fifth gear fork (where the vehicle is fully operational in the picture) has a lock pin sat, this will knock out to make progress (use a piece of wood as resistance) Before you do that you put in hill and fifth grade at the same time to lock the axles. This is thus a manuelt directly on the shoulders not interact with the driver. Since it can be loose nut and Torx screw that holds the two tows. (See more on next slide)
With scouring warn and switch the fork over (not in picture), it is time to pull away tows. I tried once with no ordinary screed it can go if you have a bloody turn. Since these boxes are basically the same as sitting in the Volvo 440/480 and early V/S40 are the tools of most major Volvo workshops either Volvo or Renault article. Some cross-lists are not, unfortunately. I recommend not to do this step without having access to Volvo / Renault special tools for this purpose (see photos below). My experience is that the workshops are really nice and want to help, I have always had to borrow the tools I needed.
Tool to draw the fifth "little" tows, 9995339 units of Volvo language.
The tool to pull it off "large" Drevet mm, which you can see in 1170 at Renault language.
Here you can see what is what. The spring-loaded steel balls run against traces of gear axes and the various gear positions.
Held on for hours and make a fuss because I missed remove this. Can not be disassembled box more than 15mm as long as it is left. Even back light sensor must be removed
At last ....
A little more descriptive text ...
Låsstiftet the picture must be removed to the fork to be lifted out. All pins Monday picks away to be replaced by new
Diocese is to knock out but it will be quite large excavation in the fork IOM that may take part. Use in preference to Renault tools 949 on the image if you have access to it, feels better to avoid violence.
Here is seen the same pin + tracks of gear axes as previously described spring-loaded balls resting in.
Three pins (two thick and narrow) fixes the forks in växelådshuset.
Close-up of the above described pin in the company of the wonderful tool telescoping magnet
With the pins out, all forks and axles removed from the same time. NOTE important JC5-130! Tape splinesen the input shaft with thin packing tape and grease / oil in it so you do not damage the pack box when you drag through the shaft. More on this later.
Pack Box to differ if you take that to a don, so it is ON END, then only to remove. During this is a less funny nut which is diff. Long 47mm sleeve, not many who have. I borrowed one of the local Volvo dealer. 9995323 Units of Volvo language.
The above-described sleeve
You also need a tool to lock the crown wheel when to loosen the nut described above. I built a separate bit of old junk.
Rent house
Diff from. Great book Monday knocking gently removed with a chisel blow.
New in the pipeline to jump in.
Crown wheel to be pressed on the difference + the lock with two steel balls. Because this solution has two tracks spark of original crown wheel. Original sit tight + that rolled one edge of the crown wheel. I have left off this to a local firm that turning off the rolled edge, pushing the crown wheel and spark new track of this.
Crown wheel back from gnistning. Tomorrow it will be to pop up box.
Crown wheel and large stock in place of diff. Crown wheel was really tough to get on and I recommend that the heat out of Helvar * e of a plate before you put on it. Stocks knocking Monday there with a normal vehicle, is quite easy.
Assembled in the house. NOTE! Differentiating also shimsas after that it changed its diff. 2525 mm should be assumed by the new diff and old stock, in my set the original 2375 mm. Thinner Shim = tight preload on the bearings. Do not forget to check the differential spins easy to turn with 0-20Nm load furthest out on the crown wheel.
Shafts and forks on the spot
New låsstift, pressed, the opening in the diocese must be in line with the axis.
Here be one of the three different låsstifft (other than on the previous picture) that locks the same switch the forks into position. A little tricky to get it all together when the different axes are locked each other in series. But as long as you watch the tread in the shoulders and thinking for a bit so take how the axles must be to fall into place.
Another angle on the same thing. Here seen from inside the fifth gear shaft will sit.
Switchboard Meka Simen in the right position before växelådshalvorna should be merged
The big moment, glued and ready to be assembled.
Here is the box at home with all the gear functioning. Diocese in the image is only a provisional ditpillat, a new be there as soon as everything is locktitat and clearly.
Here diocese to fifth gear fork knocking there. Support with a PIECE OF WOOD.
Pin in place, the position in the opening of the diocese that I have previously described to be in line with the axis.
Must also tell you about a small problem I encountered during this operation. In order to take the nut and Torx keeping fifth two ran on the spot (seen better on the earlier images) must be put in two switches simultaneously. In Renault's manual to early JC5 boxes, it is the first to put in Ettan, and then drive down the fifth gear at the same time (the direction of the arrow) so that the box is unlocked. This is not possible to do on my box, so I do not know.
However, it is possible to manually add the slopes, by pressing the back axle, and then manually pressing the fifth gear axle (in direction of the inritade arrow). This works well and you can draw firm ran without problems. But then we must do in the right way to set things right again and that was when it was a little problem.
The problem is that the back axle in this mode unlocks all gears except fifth grade that can be put in and out as you want. We would need to get back up the shaft in any way and it is completely flush against the gear housing and can not get hold of.
To solve this, however, manually from the fifth grade, presses the switch driver which is the hill and forced a bit both ways. Then you can get back shoulder to look out växelådshuset a bit about that in the picture below. When looking up from the house as you see the top notch in the shaft insert a screwdriver as shown and gently help gear up the shaft all the way to the position of the shoe "neutral". Check the box, all gear should now be where they should.
Here be back axle in the "neutral", the picture above shows the same axle center between their positions.
The box is completely assembled, and new stuffing box into place. These two pack boxes are the only outgoing pack the boxes, and after what I read in my old man always changed when the box picked apart. However, I do not correct. Do you have a JC5-089 so certain when you can easily switch control to urtrampningslaget which is integrated with the pack box, so then it's just as well to change. On JC5-130Does not strike me you to switch if it does not leak because the warehouse at the input shaft and the packing box is a device. Changing pack the box and where the book also is not funny, I can tell no personal experience. When mounting the differential packing box can be used to advantage the previously described method with thin pack tape fat / oil to protect the pack from the box splinesen. On JC5-089 box, you must be careful to control for urtrampningslagret ports straight. Small adjustments can be made with the don and hammers. This is not a problem at JC5-130 due to the different design.
TIP! Palla up the box in the "wave" as it will sit in the car. Mount the right drive. Pour in 3liter oil (fill in the front of the box, not through the ventilation at the top of the box), spin axes are a large number of turns, let the box be a couple of hours. Check for leaking somewhere. If not, drain the box of oil (5L canister on supreme commander for 20kr), see f**king happy and fit in the car. Takes some extra time but it is pleasant to find out if something is wrong right away. It's ratings will need to turn it up and down the box an extra time, I can tell.
Svänghjuls p**n
Standard clutch, pressure plate and urtrampningslager.
Applies to tag up properly, there was no control pins or the like. Ie. you can mount it wrong, and f**k the ignition.
Lite comparison pictures on the flywheel.
7st fitted with new bolts, model affordable for 28kr/st
Time to center
Pressure plate on!
It puzzled me a bit to the difference so much on the various urtrampningslagren
That's all for this time. The actual assembly of the box I will not describe without mentioning Whitefish's guide which I linked at the beginning of this speech. Now I just cross your fingers that everything works as it should and that anyone in the future will benefit from all the photos and descriptions. Personally, I will take a much needed vacation from bilmekandet.