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Clio Widearch Volvo Turbo (B18FT) Mega Bass Project almost complete



  Clio Widearch
8500 sounds a bit high..thats more civic vtec levels..lol

The dials are usually polished when in the car with some proper stainless steel polish i have....and used to use for the exhaust but wont be needing it for that any more...lol
 
  Astra derv
yeah 8500 was high but it was fair tuned, piper 270 cams, adjustable pulleys, chipped and remapped and limiter set to 8500 (just checked to make sure), gasflowed head, stainless cat back exhaust with de-cat, it was running 160bhp intil the oil pump fought it would stop working lol i had a receipt for £2000 for all the work above. fair enough, yeah lol is the exhaust going to be hidden then?
 
  Clio Widearch
sounds like you had a good spec engine there until the problems. Did you not bother rebuilding it. I agree that 8500 was probably pushing things a bit hard there though.
 
  Clio Widearch
And yes the twin exhaust is now hidden..forgot to add that. There are no boxes or cat though so is a bit....shall we say....noisy...lol
 
  Astra derv
ok maybe it werent 8500rpm then because the torque was 126-128lbft cant remember which one, and yeah the ecu was chipped and then remapped! risky what are you on about i have seen more with abit more bhp on standard internals and they were fine and mine was, i did have the receipt for 2grand thats not included all the bits i brought to fix it ect , alot of money went into that car but i didnt have anywhere to rebuilt it as moved onto a housing estate and the council would of just towed it away so i had no choice to sell it someone on c16v offered me a bottem end for free but i had nowhere to rebuild it shame really as i really loved that car always put a smile on my face and s**t other people up lol, shame its hidden really, that is going to be abit loud with the police as they are today and what about mot.
 
  Clio Widearch
MOT's are easy enough to come by. I have a friendly tester who does all my cars. They do a proper test and check everything is safe and that kind of thing but overlook the stupid things like emissions and noise etc.....and painted black windows...lol

I bet you were gutted you couldn't get yours back on the road after putting lots of time and money into it. I know mine being off the road for 6 years has been very annoying. At least its nearly there now though.
 
  Astra derv
yeah i was, hated seeing it get took away on the back of a lorry absolutly gutted but thats life its a shame because my mate has got a yard now so could of kept it there and rebuilt it but ill have another one one day no doubt about it just need to save up for a good one with a good shell which is hard to get for cheap,

lol it is good to have tester that your friendly with, i bet you will still get pulled though, how many times have you been pulled in it?
 

Rob

ClioSport Moderator
You're all a massive bunch of spamming bell pieces.

You never had it on topic, you never even had a point!

You're lucky that 100 string of spam posts didn't blow the ban hammer into all of your faces.

Now me and my mad moderating buttons are going to have to rip apart this thread and remove the spam you've applied.
 

Nik

ClioSport Admin
  Clio Trophy #355
One positive to things kicking off is it makes me read a thread that I probably wouldn't have otherwise gone into. Crazy stuff!

Some people need to remember that there were a lot more cars styled like this in the early days of CS. It might be old skool, but that's part of the appeal.
 
  Mini Cooper S sport
Aww did I miss all the fun?

Looks horrendous, but at least you're enjoying the project. Fair play etc.

I didn't think people still 'did' cars like this.
 
  Clio Widearch
looks like i missed something while i've been out today..lol

I am aware my car is very old skool and retro but as has been said....that's kind of the point. If i'd brought it back exactly as it was when previously showing then even i would have thought twice to be fair as it was a bit too cack. Now its all come together and had all the improvements (In my eyes anyway) made me love it again.

The first thing i'll be playing in it will be a test tone CD to check the port tuning and something instrumental to set up the front end. I'll then test out the new Clarion headunit that's going in from a USB stick which will probably amazingly be something by Jason Derulo....lol
 
  Astra derv
yeah me again sorry, it is so much better now than it was before it fits in better now being smoothed, i like it its going to look so much better when its all sprayed up do you know when that is going to be? Jason Derulo is awesome ;) lol
 
  Clio Widearch
Well the plan is to finish the bodywork over the next few weekends (weather dependent), then have an MOT so i can drive it for a couple of hundred miles to check the mechanical side and for any bodywork weak spots for cracks etc. Then it will be painted I can't imagine it being painted this side of Christmas but you never know..lol.

The new 260amp alternator with external regulator will have to go in first. As long as its all done and tested for the middle of March 2014 i'm happy. It will be exactly 1 year behind schedule though...lol
 
  Astra derv
1 year behide lol thats great, weather dependent its england :S its winter now fair enough i didnt think of that driving it before to see if it cracks good idea fingers crossed it wont but with that much filler its bound to. march is so far away. and love the new alternator 260amp :cool:
 
  Clio Widearch
lol....tremendous...great quote. I have always loved these wheels. It shows how old this build is as when i first built this car and wanted wide large wheels with a small offset i had a choice of......3 sets. lol. This was the first ever Clio Mk1 (as far as i know) with 18's on it.

The alternator is actually just a standard Laguna diesel 210a alternator but with the external regulator they are always clamped at between 260 and 270amps when constantly charging at 15.1v. Really i need 2 alternators the same running in a dual setup but i would have to ditch the power steering to get it in. As it is, the one large alternator will drain 5-7bhp from the engine.
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
260amp should cope with 5kw of music at least given that even with peak loads that high the average will be far less (due to the lack of sound between notes)
assuming you are listening to music not gay sound off CDs with tedious bass notes going on and on. Run a big ass capacitor to ensure it meets demands on the notes that really drop and it will recharge in between.
 
  Clio Widearch
Christ i'm glad you didn't build my system for me. Power Caps are the worst invention ever known to man...i thought you said i was stuck in the 90's...lol If anything they hinder the performance of a system (unless its a small 1)

Power wise, even on music the system will be using
about 8-10k average with the type of music that will be playing as it will be on port tuning frequency alot of the time...similar to being on boost on a turbo uses more fuel.
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
Christ i'm glad you didn't build my system for me. Power Caps are the worst invention ever known to man...i thought you said i was stuck in the 90's...lol If anything they hinder the performance of a system (unless its a small 1)

They are a useful way to allow short term demands of current that go beyond what the alternator can provide, without being as heavy as lots of batteries.


Power wise, even on music the system will be using
about 8-10k average with the type of music that will be playing as it will be on port tuning frequency alot of the time...similar to being on boost on a turbo uses more fuel.

I prefer stereos to sound nice on a versatile range of music than to make some big DB number on a pointless pre-defined frequency TBH, but each to their own.

If you do it properly though it will crack all that filler and fibreglass pretty easily and potentially put the windscreen out if you really get some big notes going.

Most pointless thing ever IMHO, I liked loud car stereos until they got too loud for the human ear to handle listening to and ducked out at that stage, lol.
 
  Range Rover Sport
Power cap isn't really the way to go in the (ICE) world unless you've had an install designed at Halfords. Irony here as I had one (1 Farad ) when I first had my old install installed. Was more for looks than function though.

I think the argument regarding having lots of batteries due to weight is also pointless as an install like this will be heavy regardless what engine is used to transport to and from locations.

From on my understanding this car was always tuned for heavy R&B more than high Hz like my previous one. However 'usually' the dimension the subwoofer themselves determine the versatile of the sound.

Not having a dig at anyone just thought I'd share my opinion.
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
I think the argument regarding having lots of batteries due to weight is also pointless as an install like this will be heavy regardless what engine is used to transport to and from locations.

Yes the weight argument is a pretty pointless one, as the amount of weight you add trying to get a car properly sound dead is huge as well. So its not like any "proper" sound off car is ever any use as an actual performance car anymore, which means it makes more sense to just start with a van really, so its got the space and can take the weight lol.
 
  Clio Widearch
The only time capacitors are good is if they are massive and have literally a gazillion farrads. In which case you may as well have the weight of 2 or 3 batteries instead as they do a much better job, provide much more power (seeing as the capacitor has to charge from the battery anyway) and cost much less.

I like a nice all round sound for my normal systems but with this one being for streetbass and tuned to about 35Hz, it will play most things pretty well. It certainly wont be an SPL number chasing monster but should hit the low notes well.

All of the stress points (except possibly the mirrors) are away from anything that can crack with the bass. I have been very careful or designing it that way. I will have to see how the mirrors get on when the system is first tested and run in. To break windows and things like that, you have to be pushing into the 160's on the db front which this wont be doing.
 
  Range Rover Sport
It's not just that, it's the 'box' itself. Then fibreglass. Supports in the box. Coverings and plastics, equipment etc etc.

Crazy amount of weight when you add it up. Even 5 years ago this car seemed old but my gosh it was functional...
 
  Fiesta ST2 MP215
I just hope this thread isn't going to be like a revs magazine, awesome article and then you look in the back and see it for sale for £3k, this is literally the last of it's kind being produced today, And Capacitors are good imo, you certainly notice them working whilst idling at lights and the rev counter isn't flapping up and down in sync with the bass, to an extent anyway, not sure how many you'd need to feed those amps.
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
It's not just that, it's the 'box' itself. Then fibreglass. Supports in the box. Coverings and plastics, equipment etc etc.

Crazy amount of weight when you add it up. Even 5 years ago this car seemed old but my gosh it was functional...

Agreed, its easy to add quite a few hundred kgs to a car, just to make some sounds that are loud enough that if you listen to them for long you end up with temporary ear damage.

Anything louder than your ears can hack listening to seems a bit pointless to me these days (part of growing up I guess) where as I used tolerate a few days ringing in the ears years ago after id be playing music really loud.

I spent about 9 hours driving in my van yesterday which only has a couple of dozen year old 12W6 subs in it, and I didnt have it on totally flat out the whole time, just "very" loud, and I can still hear a slight ringing today even from that.
 
  Clio Widearch
chip - I read your last post wrong initially and thought you said your van had a couple of dozen W6's..lol

Harbinger - I wont be selling this on when built. I've owned it for years now and was my first car. It has about 3 parts on it which are original and has a certain place with me..lol

My opinion is if you're going to set out a goal of making the equipment you can afford the best it can be then you have to do it properly....doing audio properly basically means weight. I dont know if you have ever seen the photos from the original build but here's a select few

4x Batteries in the boot covered with MDF (They fill the entire boot area and more)

9_zps12154146.jpg


3x Batteries inside the enclosure (You can also see the steel rod connecting the front and rear of the box to eradicate flex. There is zero flex in this box as it is built to the car, 54-108mm thick around the whole thing and covered in 2 layers of fibreglass....its going nowehere...lol

DSCF0020.jpg


Start of the wood going in

1_zps231f14c2.jpg


Roof of enclosure in

2_zps08a40132.jpg


Looking into the box with 2x2 and metal strength supports and part way through the fibreglassing

3_zps597c8928.jpg


Fibreglass almost complete

10_zpsbb261f8a.jpg


Port strengthening

4_zps4554f066.jpg


Port steel supports

6_zps46b4253b.jpg


coming together now

7_zpsb7b11637.jpg


MDF roof in

5_zps79fd0614.jpg


This part took about a year to put together back in the day and that was before any subs went in...lol
 
  Clio Widearch
Old RE XXX 15" subs in enclosure with stainless trims

35_zps1f25e44c.jpg


New Orion HCCA 15.2 subs

Dscf0276.jpg


Dscf0277.jpg


MDF and fibreglassed Sound deadened doors

clio008_zps1afdab25.jpg


New subs at home

DSCF0121_zpsa4c17dae.jpg
 
  Clio Widearch
I can't wait to get them fired up and running. I had to charge the rear bank of 4 batteries as they were really flat after sitting there for 5 years or so. It took 3 days and nights to charge 4 batteries on trickle charge...lol
 


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