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As above. Sounds like a clapped out battery, bad main earths (battery to gearbox/ battery to chassis) or main +ve connections to alternator, starter motor or fuse box.
Basically check your battery and alternator for charge. Then check both ends and sheathing of every main cable from the battery.
Basically check your battery and alternator for charge. Then check both ends and sheathing of every main cable from the battery.
Now that is strang, I have just started having the same problems, after having my 182 now for nearly 3 years, never a problem starting, since yesterday it has been a bit tempremental starting some time with no responce apart from a funny clicking noise from with in the dash or air con, which might be the fuse board as it is just below. No other electrics are giving me any clues, all works fine.
Did you get yours sorted? what was the problem
Did you get yours sorted? what was the problem
Clio 197
Mine has just done the same thing. Started it to clear the ice off the screen etc. Noticed when it started, the engine was running for about 0.5 seconds before rev. counter or petrol gauge moved. Turned it off and went back inside. Went back out, started fine and parked it on the road. Next time I tried to start it it wouldn't work. Turns over about four times and then stops you cranking it over and you just get a clicking noise as already described. RAC came and couldn't fix it, but I had them fit a crankshaft sensor. Got it towed to local garage. Garage got it to work as follows:
1. Turn ignition on to the second click and leave the car door open so you don't get locked out.
2. Disconnect the battery. (8mm spanner on negative terminal)
3. Wait for 2 or 3 mins.
4. Re-Connect battery.
5. Turn the key off and remove.
6. Get out, shut the door and lock the car.
7. Un-lock the car and try to start it.
This worked first time. It seems to reset the immobiliser or something but cars going great now. Also, the changing of the crankshaft sensor seems to have stopped the "engine running before rev. counter situation".
Hope this works with yours
P.S you might want to make sure the battery's well charged if you've been trying to start it loads of times.
1. Turn ignition on to the second click and leave the car door open so you don't get locked out.
2. Disconnect the battery. (8mm spanner on negative terminal)
3. Wait for 2 or 3 mins.
4. Re-Connect battery.
5. Turn the key off and remove.
6. Get out, shut the door and lock the car.
7. Un-lock the car and try to start it.
This worked first time. It seems to reset the immobiliser or something but cars going great now. Also, the changing of the crankshaft sensor seems to have stopped the "engine running before rev. counter situation".
Hope this works with yours
P.S you might want to make sure the battery's well charged if you've been trying to start it loads of times.
Gus
ClioSport Moderator
182Turbo,DCi90
Did you mean to revive this thread ? lol
Arctic Blue Clio 182
Yea sorry I'm having this problem atm. Turned of my 182 at my friends house then when to start it and nothing but clicking. Tired jump starting it a few times and eventually got it started. Drove home to my house, around 10 miles. Turned of car and put my battery charger on. When to start the car and nothing. Just the odd click. When and got new battery and now the immobiliser light just stays on red. Any one any ideas. Cars turning over but the light stays solid red
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Gus
ClioSport Moderator
182Turbo,DCi90
That problem is a right pain. Have had it once myself years ago.
Its a gamble as to what is causing it but a few of the top of my head are:
gearbox earth strap
check fuses under bonnet - wiggle them
try the second key
or new UCH.
https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sour...mmobiliser+light+solid+site:www.cliosport.net
Its a gamble as to what is causing it but a few of the top of my head are:
gearbox earth strap
check fuses under bonnet - wiggle them
try the second key
or new UCH.
https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sour...mmobiliser+light+solid+site:www.cliosport.net
Arctic Blue Clio 182
Rite my mechanic seems to think that the ecu or uch is dead after trying everything and lookin for corroded wires and bad earth's. If I buy second hand clio 182 key, decoder ring, uch, and ecu will the work with my car? I see there is possibly a few different brands of ecus and uch on ebay but will any of them work as long as there from a 182?
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