ClioSport.net
Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
-
When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.
Castle Combe casualty (pics)
- Thread starter LewDew
- Start date
Ah, it did sound a bit on the cheap side mate!
Like most of us though, I doubt he has your connections as obviously thats bread and butter stuff to someone in your game!
What on earth are you on about?
Daniel
ClioSport Moderator
Whichever has fuel
Normally when its some imcomprensible nonsense its directed at me as he doesnt seem to like me pointing out to people how easy it is to just work on their car themselves rather than pay some so called "specialist" to do it for them, so I would assume thts the case again here mate, lol
Although god knows what the suspension reference is on about if it is directed to me.
you, trying to separate the top cup and the nut by using a massive pair of grips, despite being told that they're one piece, and looking like an idiot while you were doing it.
You don't know as much as you like to tell everyone.
Daniel
ClioSport Moderator
Whichever has fuel
That will look horrific! lol.
172
this forum needs a like button like facebook cos i couldnt help but pmsl at that post
Genuinely no idea what you are on about, I have changed the suspension on loads of clios, airgun on the nut or if you dont have one then spanner on the nut (or grips on the outside) and spanner on the shock rod to undo one against the other.
Was pretty much the first job I did on my mk1 about 4 years ago in fact, as the first mod I made to it was firmer springs.
iv been saying that since 2006! lol.
To do bodywork well a long time.
It is for you because you now have the skills and experience. Because not everyone is mechanically minded I know someone that is amazing at computers can do loads of different things but would stuggle to assemble some flat pack furniture. He couldn't just go out and change an engine specialist tools or not. The point about being scared to try is good but imo can only go so far. I wouldn't call it a piece of cake but agree it's not as difficult as it seems.
depends what you want to weld really. I taught myself enough to do a few patches, but got taught properly a couple of years later when I was building Crash simulation structures for cars and aircraft. It's mostly surface prep, and experience of knowing when you're about to blow a big hole on the thinner stuff really.
Buy a welder, a book, and get a load of off-cuts and get practicing
Now I have 20 years experience of doing stuff like that, but I didnt the first time I changed an engine, hence I was saying about when I was a teenager, which im not by a LONG way now sadly, lol, and its not like in the case of a clio for a member on a forum like this there isnt likely to be someone local to lend a hand if you get stuck?
And a bloody big hammer to test the welds with, lol, I can remember when I first started welding thinking I'd done a nice job of stuff till I put some load on it and then it seperated.
As you say, thinner stuff you can blow a hole in is the thing thats hardest to do, which is what most bodywork falls under of course.
E36 M3. 182
Aye, id be looking to be able to do functional, decent welds, rather than anything fancy.... Ive been spannering for years on some pretty decent stuff, but its one of those things that has never been required in my job so I haven't learned it! Good skill to have IMO. This being one case!!
You are trolling now...
Daniel
ClioSport Moderator
Whichever has fuel
It will crack and/or sink, there's nothing behind it. Which is why you'd need to weld up the hole.
E36 M3. 182
From what ive seen/ assume about welding and filling, youd want to weld a plate in, grind the welds flat, then put a really thin skim of filler over that to finish it off. I had a Mk2 fiesta whos front wing top above the headlight was almost entirely filler. It cracked, so I bodge taped it in place!!
Evo 5 RS
That's about 2k worth of work. Depends IMHO entirely on the state of your engine and chassis on the whole. You could go out and buy another one for half that, but it will no doubt have other problems, belts etc. which despite what's been said above few people on here are capable of doing themselves correctly. So it all adds up. You just need to weigh your options, if the cars a bit rotted underneath like some of them are, you might want to give it a miss.
Both options IMO aren't silly.
Both options IMO aren't silly.
I can weld just about for structural type stuff, but would love to be able to do bodywork as well, but doubt I will ever be able to justify spending the amount of time it would take to learn.
And painting I dont think I'd ever be any good at, im much more a mechanical and scientific person than an artistic one, im not convinced everyone is capable of being a decent painter and if that is the case I reckon im probably one of the ones who isnt, lol
umm, no I wasnt! I was suggesting the use of body filler to fill the hole and dent, which is very on topic if you dont mind.
this is what I mean when I say use filler on the hole; secure a bit of metal onthe back as a back plate then use bodyfiller to smooth it out. mach easier and cheaper than trying to weld the panel back fully.
Evo 5 RS
used zero filler on my ph1 boot lock. Proper jobs don't need it
182cup & 172 racecar
Looks cool, leave it.
I did the same at the same corner 
Mine looks worse but was more cosmetic than yours.
View attachment 30436
View attachment 30437
View attachment 30438
Mine looks worse but was more cosmetic than yours.View attachment 30436
View attachment 30437
View attachment 30438
Agree with Dan, quite an easy fix IMO. Panel is hardly distorted and that would weld up no problem (nice a slowly though to avoid distorting the panel!!)
My Phase 2 was a cat 'd' write off with this damage,
We replaced the door asap as it wasn't worth the hours trying to get that straight when it was a bolt on panel.
For the rear quarter me and my dad (sheet metal worker/fabricator) straighted it out as much as possible with a dolly and hammer and the bodyshop did a final bit more panel beating and it only needed a minimal skim of filler to get it looking as good as new - no need for a new rear quarter at all.
My Phase 2 was a cat 'd' write off with this damage,
We replaced the door asap as it wasn't worth the hours trying to get that straight when it was a bolt on panel.
For the rear quarter me and my dad (sheet metal worker/fabricator) straighted it out as much as possible with a dolly and hammer and the bodyshop did a final bit more panel beating and it only needed a minimal skim of filler to get it looking as good as new - no need for a new rear quarter at all.
182cup & 172 racecar
It does show you how strong these little cars are really.
Evo 5 RS
4 star safety rating for a 2ltr shoe isn't bad going
They really are compared to similar cars from around the same time.
