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I'm 54 and have had the 172 since new 10 years ago, the wife wanted a Clio, and I said only if it's a sport. We have other cars for moving the kids or long trips, this is just the play car. The OP needs to trade her in (not the car).

It is being done properly on a dyno, but because the warm up is fairly quick it is a very long process. I got a map from ktec as a starting point, but the car was almost undrivable. It's almost there now, but I'm sure it would be alot easier if I had a decent starting point.

Cheap cos it's K-tec or because I want the file?

I have fitted the low boost kit from k-tech, but having problems mapping. It's been on the dyno 3 times already. The problem is mainly in the warm up stage, with hesitation and even stalling. Does anyone have a good GEN90 map file they could send me to test?

Is it just one knock on acceleration or deceleration, or both? If so it's probably the exhaust hitting the subframe, check the top engine mount, my original tore in two within 6,000 miles from new. If it's a constant knocking with wheel rotation, then it could be the gearbox or drive shaft.

I have an accumulation of engine oil on top of the cam cover and it has started filling up the holes around the spark plugs for cylinders 2 and 3. It looks like it may come from under the small cover at the rear of the cam cover (under the intake plenum) where the crankcase breather tubes are...

I think this is a problem with power to the electronic throttle body. Mine would occasionally stick at a certain throttle opening, usually around 2000-2500rpm. The light on the dash that indicates an electrical problem lit up, but no codes were stored in the ecm. After wobbling the connector...

I have the same sort of thing. When not fully warmed up the engine revs drop too far and it cuts out. No stored codes in the ECM. Usually happens when shifting from 1st to 2nd.

Chaged the alternator yesterday. The hose clamp you need would be minimum 70mm, I got a 45-70mm and it was too small, ended up with a 90-114mm which didn't close up quite enough so had to stick the end of a ring spanner between the clamp and the top of the tensioner to fill the gap. The...

Knocking under acceleration is probably a broken top engine mount, timing belt side. Mine ripped in half after only 6k miles. Get the K-Tec uprated version, although you will get more vibration from the engine.

Can you actually compress the tensioner like this or just stop it from decompressing when you take the belt off?

Bump

Sounds like my alternator is failing, at only 40,000km. It's making a loud whine and makes a burning smell, although it still seems to be charging the battery OK, 14.6 volts when running. In a dark garage it almost looks like there is a light bulb in the windings. My question is, how does the...

If you don't get a click it sounds like your compressor clutch is not engaging. If it's low or out of gas the clutch will cycle in and out quicker than normal.

Aren't you supposed to change the tensioner when you change the belt. The spring loses tension over time.

Last as long as the original ones!!!!! My originals lasted about 12,000 miles, and the top mount was ripped in half.

Probably a coincidence, but exactly this happened to me. I was trying to start it with the drivers door open, when I shut the door it started immediately.

Mine's exactly the same, especialy when warm, it's hard to let the clutch out smoothly. I've thought about greasing or oiling the cable, but I have a feeling the problem doesn't lie there, that it's in the clutch itself.

I just replaced the upper engine mount with the uprated ktec as the original ripped in half at 26,000km. I don't think it will make the others fail quicker, the bottom gearbox mount is just to support the weight anyway. The uprated mount will take the torque much better than the original.

So how did you get on? Interested to know wether the cam belt was actually broken.

Bas...ds can't sell any cars so they put the price up. Looks like spare parts have gone up too.

Ah, just looked at that compression tester. Since the plugs are recessed into the cam cover, you will have trouble tightening that gauge in the plug thread. You will only be able to tighten it by turning on the rubber pipe, it may or may not be enough to seal. You may have more luck with one...

I'm not sure how the fuel pump will react on the Clio. I know on other cars I have had that you get a small squirt, then the pump is shut down as the ECM detects a fuel leak. You may have to pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, Fred? As for spark plug thread, take a plug out and take it along to...

If you want a proper compression test, you'll have to crank it with the ignition, but I would check to see if the belt is still in one piece first. That way you don't risk doing more damage if it is broken. You don't need to lower the engine to check the belt, just support the engine weight...

You will get some compression turning it by hand, but you won't get much of a reading on a gauge. No,you won't do any damage supporting the engine and taking off that piece between the engine and the top mount. This will tell you a lot as you can see the part of the cambelt between the two cam...

OK, you didn't mention the pulley locking tool, and I have seen posts on here saying the horseshoe tool is crap because it bends, when it's purpose is only for cam alignment. That one in the link is a Sealey tool in which I have full confidence.

I would do this first. Just support the engine, take the nut off the top of the upper engine mount and the remaining two bolts on the top cover (that piece connecting the engine to the engine mount) and you will see the top of the belt and weather it has snapped or not. Then, if not snapped...

You shouldn't be locking the cams from the gearbox end to undo the pulley nut/bolts, if you are using the horseshoe locking tool you are likely to bend it. The cheapest place I have found the pulley locking tool is here: http://ccw-tools.com/product.asp?strParents=&CAT_ID=9&P_ID=29228 or you...

There is no way I would spend money on the Renault crap mounts. I was changing my belts yesterday and when I took off the upper engine mount it was torn in two. I reckon it broke at about 26,000km when I started to get the banging on acceleration. That is absolutely ridiculous for the life of an...

Just changed my belts yesterday. I had read about using a 3/8" drive, but all of mine were either too long to fit between the body and the tensioner or too wide and would not enter the square hole due to the closeness of the spring. I ended up pushing a large screwdriver through a hole from the...