Recent content by Mangate

I'm 54 and have had the 172 since new 10 years ago, the wife wanted a Clio, and I said only if it's a sport. We have other cars for moving the kids or long trips, this is just the play car. The OP needs to trade her in (not the car).

It is being done properly on a dyno, but because the warm up is fairly quick it is a very long process. I got a map from ktec as a starting point, but the car was almost undrivable. It's almost there now, but I'm sure it would be alot easier if I had a decent starting point.

Cheap cos it's K-tec or because I want the file?

I have fitted the low boost kit from k-tech, but having problems mapping. It's been on the dyno 3 times already. The problem is mainly in the warm up stage, with hesitation and even stalling. Does anyone have a good GEN90 map file they could send me to test?

Is it just one knock on acceleration or deceleration, or both? If so it's probably the exhaust hitting the subframe, check the top engine mount, my original tore in two within 6,000 miles from new. If it's a constant knocking with wheel rotation, then it could be the gearbox or drive shaft.

I have an accumulation of engine oil on top of the cam cover and it has started filling up the holes around the spark plugs for cylinders 2 and 3. It looks like it may come from under the small cover at the rear of the cam cover (under the intake plenum) where the crankcase breather tubes are...

I think this is a problem with power to the electronic throttle body. Mine would occasionally stick at a certain throttle opening, usually around 2000-2500rpm. The light on the dash that indicates an electrical problem lit up, but no codes were stored in the ecm. After wobbling the connector...

I have the same sort of thing. When not fully warmed up the engine revs drop too far and it cuts out. No stored codes in the ECM. Usually happens when shifting from 1st to 2nd.

Chaged the alternator yesterday. The hose clamp you need would be minimum 70mm, I got a 45-70mm and it was too small, ended up with a 90-114mm which didn't close up quite enough so had to stick the end of a ring spanner between the clamp and the top of the tensioner to fill the gap. The...

Knocking under acceleration is probably a broken top engine mount, timing belt side. Mine ripped in half after only 6k miles. Get the K-Tec uprated version, although you will get more vibration from the engine.

Can you actually compress the tensioner like this or just stop it from decompressing when you take the belt off?

Bump

Sounds like my alternator is failing, at only 40,000km. It's making a loud whine and makes a burning smell, although it still seems to be charging the battery OK, 14.6 volts when running. In a dark garage it almost looks like there is a light bulb in the windings. My question is, how does the...

If you don't get a click it sounds like your compressor clutch is not engaging. If it's low or out of gas the clutch will cycle in and out quicker than normal.

Aren't you supposed to change the tensioner when you change the belt. The spring loses tension over time.