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Expiry on new style crank sensor?



  Ph2 172
Can/does the new style blue crank sensor go tits up eventually?

Car has it fitted but three times now has refused to start (twice before a track day!) problem is solved my removing and cleaning the crank sensor which never looks like there is anything wrong with it. I have no history of when the sensor was fitted.

Can there be problems with the plug / connection that anyone can suggest might be worth a try? Each time I've wiggled f**k out the wires with no success which made me think it wasn't a connection issue!
 
  dan's cast offs.
shouldn't have issue with it then, check how the plug has been fitted, seen a few that have been botched to say the least.
 
  Ph2 172
shouldn't have issue with it then, check how the plug has been fitted, seen a few that have been botched to say the least.

Balls! The connection looks legit from the outside but it has the heatshrink over it so who knows. I'd have thought if its a bad connection a wiggle would have had an effect?
It will run for a good few hundred miles then threaten to not start, then next time it won't!

Doesn't make sense, didn't want to shell out 60 quid if it's unlikely to be the problem but surely all points there!?
 
  dan's cast offs.
generally a crank sensor won't start when it's got hot, half hour or so later and it will start.
 
  Ph2 172
generally a crank sensor won't start when it's got hot, half hour or so later and it will start.

That's even more strange as it's always from cold!? Three trackdays in pretty warm weather and was never an issue. Usually after sitting for a week or two but didn't think that was THAT a long time!?
 
  dan's cast offs.
could possibly be wiring issue then if it starts once you've taken it off and back on.

how long will it crank for when it won't start?
 
  Ph2 172
could possibly be wiring issue then if it starts once you've taken it off and back on.

how long will it crank for when it won't start?

Oh joy! Should I be able to do a continuity test on the plug? Longest I've cranked it for is a good 5/6 seconds maybe 4 times in a row, it usually fires almost straight away. You think it would be worth taking the heatshrink off to inspect the connection or would you agree it doesn't sound like a connection issue!?


coolant temp sensor?

Excuse my ignorance, what effect do you think that would have? This crossed my mind too, the wires coming from it look a bit sketchy but everything there seems solid enough. Are they wired to the same place?
 

bashracing

ClioSport Club Member
the cold start is controlled through the ecu by the coolant temp sensor, if it thinks the engine is already up to temp it will lean out the start up mixture
 
  Ph2 172
the cold start is controlled through the ecu by the coolant temp sensor, if it thinks the engine is already up to temp it will lean out the start up mixture

Aye ok, and can they be temperamental? If this was the case, would it even try to start? Time before last it did start but sounded rough so took it a blast, next morning it wouldn't start and this is where I'm at. At the moment when it does it, it doesn't even caugh, splutter or stutter it just winds and winds and winds
 

bashracing

ClioSport Club Member
just get to a scrap yard and whip one of a mk2 clio or mk1 scenic with 16v petrol engine, or they are around £25 from the dealers
 
  Ph2 172
How old is your battery?

Again, no idea. I could probably get it tested though? It has went flat a couple of times over last winter but that's a couple of months before the problem started. I put a trickle charger on it if it's sitting and I'm working on it but all the readings there suggest it's still full of charge
 
  SQ5
I bet a new battery will sort it, they seem to be sensitive to voltage drop when cranking. I've had it before and also known others to have same problems and it solves it with a new battery.
 
  Ph2 172
I bet a new battery will sort it, they seem to be sensitive to voltage drop when cranking. I've had it before and also known others to have same problems and it solves it with a new battery.

Right ok, so maybe worth trying a jump start if/when the problem next arises?
Just strange that cleaning the sensor solves it temporarily, unless someone put the new one on and it keeps doing it so sold the car 😂
 
  Ph2 172
I bet a new battery will sort it, they seem to be sensitive to voltage drop when cranking. I've had it before and also known others to have same problems and it solves it with a new battery.

Smallish update, this time when the problem arose I tried jump starting the car. It turned over MUCH faster and fired up after a few more turns than usual so took it a little drive, all well and good and thought this would point to the battery. New battery in the following day and back to square one.

I wiggled the tdc wires, wiggled them while the car was being turned over, unplugged the tdc and plugged back in, made sure it was in tight, made sure the wires were connected well in the back of the plug, I stripped the heatshrink from the join to make sure the connection was good, turning the car over after each fiddle with no joy.

I slackened the bolts that hold the tdc sensor on and the car fired straight up, wtf!? Tightened it back up and it started again. I thought about trying to shim the sensor out a bit but don't want to drop a bloody washer Down there!
I'm starting to wonder, the harness is genuine Renault but is the sensor itself genuine? Should there be any part numbers or stamps on the actual sensor?

I read if the car starts with a jump then that points to the sensor but don't see how that could be possible!?
 
Smallish update, this time when the problem arose I tried jump starting the car. It turned over MUCH faster and fired up after a few more turns than usual so took it a little drive, all well and good and thought this would point to the battery. New battery in the following day and back to square one.

I wiggled the tdc wires, wiggled them while the car was being turned over, unplugged the tdc and plugged back in, made sure it was in tight, made sure the wires were connected well in the back of the plug, I stripped the heatshrink from the join to make sure the connection was good, turning the car over after each fiddle with no joy.

I slackened the bolts that hold the tdc sensor on and the car fired straight up, wtf!? Tightened it back up and it started again. I thought about trying to shim the sensor out a bit but don't want to drop a bloody washer Down there!
I'm starting to wonder, the harness is genuine Renault but is the sensor itself genuine? Should there be any part numbers or stamps on the actual sensor?

I read if the car starts with a jump then that points to the sensor but don't see how that could be possible!?
The genuine Renault blue ones have SIEMENS on them. I had mine on for 6 years no problem, they dont seam to go wrong like the factory fitted black ones.
There magnetic and pick up iron fillings off the flywheel from the stater motor gear this can cause clearance problems / incorrect signal to ecu so worth cleaning these off.
 
  Ph2 172
The genuine Renault blue ones have SIEMENS on them. I had mine on for 6 years no problem, they dont seam to go wrong like the factory fitted black ones.
There magnetic and pick up iron fillings off the flywheel from the stater motor gear this can cause clearance problems / incorrect signal to ecu so worth cleaning these off.

Thanks for the info, mine has nothing stamped on it other than the code 054312G made in Italy!
Are all the new ones blue? That's what's confusing me, people said the new Renault one shouldn't go wrong, the wiring harness has a Renault tag on it with the date 2013 but the sensor has little markings as above!

Yeah I'm aware, but every time I've taken the sensor off it is absolutely spotless!
 
Thanks for the info, mine has nothing stamped on it other than the code 054312G made in Italy!
Are all the new ones blue? That's what's confusing me, people said the new Renault one shouldn't go wrong, the wiring harness has a Renault tag on it with the date 2013 but the sensor has little markings as above!

Yeah I'm aware, but every time I've taken the sensor off it is absolutely spotless!
Like i said new ones blue you cant buy the black ones anymore from Renault the one you have wont be Genuine.
 
Thanks for the info, mine has nothing stamped on it other than the code 054312G made in Italy!
Are all the new ones blue? That's what's confusing me, people said the new Renault one shouldn't go wrong, the wiring harness has a Renault tag on it with the date 2013 but the sensor has little markings as above!

Yeah I'm aware, but every time I've taken the sensor off it is absolutely spotless!
$_57.jpg
 
  Ph2 172
For anyone interested, I'm 99% sure my issue has been the sensor itself. For some reason I assumed that since the harness was Renault that the sensor would be too, so you sir.....
what make is it?
Get 10 points! But thanks to all for the help and suggestions.

Got a Renault sensor and the one that was fitted looks to be an eBay special so shout out to whoever replaced it all for cheaping out!
 


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