ClioSport.net

Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

  • When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.

ECP handbrake cables for 182 fitment



Ok so purchased both Pagid handbrake cables from ECP to actually see if they fit as I've read posts saying they do and others saying they don't, good and bad news... the NSR fits fine as its the correct length of 1420mm, the OSR however does not as its only 1430mm which is 50mm short, so I've purchased the OSR from Renault parts direct for £32 delivered using c.netfree (free delivery). The ECP NSR is £16 using their standard 30% disount code SALE30, so a £10 saving if you purchased them both from RPD (£58 for both), not much I know but a saving is a saving.

ECP NSR...
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/R...133519da84f9e017704e1a1cd94bddb8cc524a&000168

RPD OSR...
http://www.renaultpartsdirect.co.uk/product/renault-clio-182-handbrake-cable-osr/
 

Stay Puft

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 172
Helpful advice mate.

As said in the other thread, I measured genuine Renault cables to be:

1480mm
1420mm
 
Helpful advice mate.

As said in the other thread, I measured genuine Renault cables to be:

1480mm
1420mm
You fitted them yet? Took me 3 feckin hours as I couldn't get the damn centre heat sheild off, had to cut it off in the end as the bloody Torx heads where all stripped. Fitting them took 10 minutes.
 

Stay Puft

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 172
You fitted them yet? Took me 3 feckin hours as I couldn't get the damn centre heat sheild off, had to cut it off in the end as the bloody Torx heads where all stripped. Fitting them took 10 minutes.

Is that the same heatshield that you'd take off to fit a shifter? Rentech fitted my shifter and it took him ages to get it off so probably the same issue as you. I'll probably pay someone to fit them..
 
Is that the same heatshield that you'd take off to fit a shifter? Rentech fitted my shifter and it took him ages to get it off so probably the same issue as you. I'll probably pay someone to fit them..
Nope its the one down from that and the T30 female bolts will be more than likely seized and will probably snap if you can get a grip on them, I've just cut mine off and its staying that way as the shield only protects the rear seat area, left the fuel tank thin shield in situ though. If they're the OE cables as well getting the plastic stoppers out can also be a ball ache.
 

Stay Puft

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 172
Nope its the one down from that and the T30 female bolts will be more than likely seized and will probably snap if you can get a grip on them, I've just cut mine off and its staying that way as the shield only protects the rear seat area, left the fuel tank thin shield in situ though. If they're the OE cables as well getting the plastic stoppers out can also be a ball ache.

Yeah, I think i'll pay someone!
 

Louis

I Park Like a C**t
ClioSport Club Member
Just a small bump, but my NSR handbrake cable appears to have broken as I can still rotate the wheel with the handbrake on... Am I best off replacing both sides at the same time? Got the MOT coming up soon, so needs doing ASAP.
 
Just a small bump, but my NSF handbrake cable appears to have broken as I can still rotate the wheel with the handbrake on... Am I best off replacing both sides at the same time? Got the MOT coming up soon, so needs doing ASAP.
If you only replace 1 you will create a brake imbalance that will show up on the brake rollers come mot time.
The reason for this is the old cable will have stretched over time causing the new cable to apply the brake first.
 

Louis

I Park Like a C**t
ClioSport Club Member
If you only replace 1 you will create a brake imbalance that will show up on the brake rollers come mot time.
The reason for this is the old cable will have stretched over time causing the new cable to apply the brake first.
Not worth the hassle then, may aswell do both. I'm tempted to do the above of one from euro, and one from renault, but is the quality the same? Don't want to have to do the job again for the sake of saving a tenner now. Is it a driveway on the back job, or need to be on ramps?
 

Jekyll

ClioSport Club Member
Probably not much help, but I got genuine ones at the price above, purely because of people having issues with non gen ones. I didn't think the price was too bad considering its genuine parts.

Haven't fitted it yet, mind.
 
Not worth the hassle then, may aswell do both. I'm tempted to do the above of one from euro, and one from renault, but is the quality the same? Don't want to have to do the job again for the sake of saving a tenner now. Is it a driveway on the back job, or need to be on ramps?
I would just buy the genuine ones and do it on the drive on my back but allow plenty of time for seized parts, being 11 years old.
 
I found it an arse of a job on axel stands TBH, the heat sheild being the biggest PITA, I just ripped it off I got that pissed of in the end. Also getting the old plastic stoppers out was a struggle, half of mine are left in there somewhere. Once prepped it's a 10 minute job to fit them.
 

shiftspark

ClioSport Club Member
  R53 GR86
I've just had my heat shield off and it's doable on axel stands i only got 3 of the screws out and had to bend the shield out of the way so as said it can be done the hardest part is getting the screws out.
 
Anyone doing this DIY check the state of the bolts first on the sheild and if rounded don't even bother just cut the fecker off, if not rounded spray them up with penatrating fluid the night before attempting the job.
 
  dan's cast offs.
If you only replace 1 you will create a brake imbalance that will show up on the brake rollers come mot time.
The reason for this is the old cable will have stretched over time causing the new cable to apply the brake first.


have fitted more in singles than pairs and never had a problem with imbalance. the adjuster plate on the handbrake end isn't fixed.
 
have fitted more in singles than pairs and never had a problem with imbalance. the adjuster plate on the handbrake end isn't fixed.
Not saying it will be a mot failure only that it will show up and one brake will be stronger than the other, the adjuster plate can only tilt to a certain degree.

580_zpsqbo9viuz.jpg
 
  Black 182 FF
Not worth the hassle then, may aswell do both. I'm tempted to do the above of one from euro, and one from renault, but is the quality the same? Don't want to have to do the job again for the sake of saving a tenner now. Is it a driveway on the back job, or need to be on ramps?

I've got a thread asking basically the same on the first page of this sub forum. Turns out Renault Parts Direct do both genuine cables for £58.75 and you can use the free delivery code in this thread.
 
  dan's cast offs.
I've got a thread asking basically the same on the first page of this sub forum. Turns out Renault Parts Direct do both genuine cables for £58.75 and you can use the free delivery code in this thread.


you sure? last time i looked at their price on them they were just on £40 each?
 

DanSej6

ClioSport Club Member
Random thread bump! Do we know if these fit a 172 Cup?
Or seeing as it's a Cup is it another different item from the other ph2 1*2 models?
Not too sold on the idea of spending 80quid on some cables!
 

Stay Puft

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 172
Should be the same fitment!

Similar question..

Had my renault cables fitted, and it creaks everytime anyone moves with it on, getting in /out etc! Im only 12st so it's rude and calling me fat.. do they all creak?
 
  Renultsport Clio 182
fwiw I've just done this. As stated above it's pretty straight forward, with some caveats, and as usual would certainly be quicker next time through now I know what to do (though I hope I don't need another cable too soon!)

Below is what I found, while I can still remember, for anyone thinking about doing it. Sorry it's a long post!

I bought OEM parts, fine it's more money (~£65 from dealer vs ~£58 from Renaultpartsdirect for the pair) but I wanted to be able to whinge at the dealer if they sent me the wrong ones.

I did it on my drive, it would have been easier on a set of lifts or a pit. I backed onto some building blocks (3 lined up in a row on their sides in each side of the car, high density 100mm tall when on their sides) at the front before backing the rear wheels up some standard Halfords-esque steel ramps, which gave a bit of extra headroom - a few more inches would have been even better though!.

The heatshield under the central silencer needs to come off, really quick and easy (10mm bolts + retained washers, going into nuts welded onto the backside of the other heatshield/bodywork, etc. Spray of WD40 and off they came with no complaints. The lambda sensor wiring is clipped to the front of this heatshield so this clip has to come off to get the heatshield out to give more room (this can be pushed off the edge using needle nose pliers against the edge of the clip & the side of the heatshield). Heatshield comes out most easily in one direction (sideways towards the OS/Right of the car).

I had to (and you will also need to) slacken the handbrake adjustment nut, access isn't great but it's easy once I worked out how - I ended up with a long 13mm socket + a universal joint, then an extension going to a ratchet (socket needs to be long so the bolt at the centre of the adjuster can pass through). Otherwise access is still pretty restricted by the silencer even without the heatshield, so this can be a bit of a pain as you can't turn the ratchet very far. Give it a spray of WD40 before starting.

Moving to the back of the car, the old cables can be pulled out of the hole through the brake calipers quite easily (disengage from the piston actuator - maybe there's a correct term for this component - then give them a yank to pull them out forwards). To get enough slack in the cable that is still intact you'll need to slacken the adjuster nut and/or get someone to compress the brake actuator so it can be unhooked. It should be possible to do it all by slackening the nut, but my Dad was helping so I cheated and didn't need to slacken it quite so much (same goes for fitting the new ones).

Make sure you remember the routing, though when you put the new one in there's really only one way it will go (make sure it goes through the retaining hole near the rear suspension torsion bar). There is also a clip to remove for each cable, which stop them from flopping around underneath the car (though the two are in in slightly different locations due to the fuel tank location). These are both located around about the mid-point of the cable at or around the fuel tank.

If you look at the new cables you can see the push-fit part with barbs, which is pushed (forward) into the back of a bulkhead and then pokes into the region above the centre silencer where the adjuster is. To remove the old cables give them a good tug from behind the bulkhead (i.e. grab the cable somewhere under the fuel tank after unclipping it and pull hard). The cable will probably part ways with the plastic barbed clip, which will remain embedded in the bulkhead. After quite a few tries, I worked out a way to get these out. The actual handbrake cable will still be going through this clip and the bulkhead, so chop one end off (one will probably have fallen off already which is why you're under the car in the first place) and pull the wire out to just leave the plastic tube/clip.

To get this off I popped a long screwdriver in (it won't go in very far, not all the way to the bulkhead) and levered it a few times to loosen the clip/break some of the barbs off the clip. Then I popped one claw of an adjustable wrench into the plastic tube, gripped it hard and tugged and levered. The NS/Left one is more difficult to get access to, so take a look at this and make sure you have something which will let you reach in. You could probably remove the rear heatshield for better access (i.e. the heatshield which covers the pipe from the centre silencer all the way back to the back boxes), but I wanted to avoid this if possible and it worked out ok.

Moving back to the front, if you look at a picture of the region around the handbrake adjuster (above the centre silencer), the plastic fittings which can be seen going into the bulkhead (heading backwards) stay with the car, you don't fiddle with/remove these - the bits you removing are to the rear of the bulkhead.

Starting around about the location of the fuel tank (i.e. at the clips to which the cables were attached), the new cables are pushed backwards through the retaining holes above the rear torsion bar, then looped around to go through the hole in the calipers and pushed through until they pop out the other side. The wire is then engaged in the actuator arm, then you can thread the cable through the bulkhead (where you just had to remove the plastic barbed connectors), clip onto the bottom of the vehicle on/alongside the fuel tank, and push the barbs home. For the NS/left, it might be worth partly poking the cable through the bulkhead before you push it through the retaining hole as otherwise it needs quite a bend to get it in above the rear heatshield (which I did successfully, but thought it could be done better).

Once both cables are through the bulkhead, slacken the adjuster nut as explained earlier (and/or have someone compress the brake actuators to give you enough slack) to allow you to fit the ends of the cable into the adjuster plate. Tighten the nut up to remove the slack and then try the handbrake to give you 4 clicks or whatever the recommendation is (see thread above).

Refit heatshield, reclip lambda probe wiring, all done.

Probably took 3 hours all in to do this from scratch, next time though (God forbid!) would be an hour tops from start to finish.
 
  BMW 320d SE
So I came across this thread and decided to give the OP’s advice a go. I got an offside OEM cable from RenaultParts and a nearside Pagid one from Carparts4less.
Both are fitted now with no length issues. Top tips from CS, once again!
 
  clio r27 f1
im slightly confused on how people are managing to fit he smaller LH cable at 1378mm (ECP) and get them the fit? The 1 i got from ECP was 1378mm in length and was a good bit too short. I would expect so if the LH cable from Renault is 1450mm long?

I thought these were the correct lenths?

OSR = 1480mm
NSR = 1450mm

Where is everyone getting their LH cables from that actually fits? Cant get mine through the MOT and every cable i try is too short and with renults not making genuine ones anymore its getting abit annoying.
 

JamesBryan

ClioSport Club Member
im slightly confused on how people are managing to fit he smaller LH cable at 1378mm (ECP) and get them the fit? The 1 i got from ECP was 1378mm in length and was a good bit too short. I would expect so if the LH cable from Renault is 1450mm long?

I thought these were the correct lenths?

OSR = 1480mm
NSR = 1450mm

Where is everyone getting their LH cables from that actually fits? Cant get mine through the MOT and every cable i try is too short and with renults not making genuine ones anymore its getting abit annoying.

I believe Ktec are doing them. They are having theirs made by the original manufacturer.

Not cheap though.
 
  clio r27 f1
I believe Ktec are doing them. They are having theirs made by the original manufacturer.

Not cheap though.

K tec do not offer anything regards handbrake cables for the 182. and they are not speaking to the original manufacture after speaking with Dan yesterday.

which is abit of a let down
 


Top