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Demisting screen: choice of T7 Heater or Heated Screen?



  16v UK Cup Race Car
Dedicated Track Car - interior completely stripped and heater deleted.

Am trying to decide between the T7 heater with ducting and vents in dash (approx £120) versus a heated windscreen (approx £260 + fitting ? + wiring?) so the screen sounds like an expensive proposition.

Which clears the screen best (and keeps it clear) on wet track days?

And for those who have fitted heated screens, how are they wired up I'm a numpty when it comes to electrics - I'll get someone else to do it properly, but I'm curious to know how it gets wired in and therefore approx cost).
 

Akay

ClioSport Club Member
  Clubman Cooper S
Was discussing this with @dann2707 yesterday. Think a battery supply with a relay for a switched ignition would be the best way, they would have quite a draw I would imagine!
 

massiveCoRbyn

ClioSport Club Member
  Several
My rally car has both. I've not tested it on a misted screen yet, but the T7 heater I've fitted sounds a bit weedy, so I have no idea how well it will work. Heated screen usually clear quickly though, so that would be my preference I think.
 

Akay

ClioSport Club Member
  Clubman Cooper S
Or, you could repurpose the rear screen heating elements and setup, thats on a timed relay I believe, so all setup.
 
  16v UK Cup Race Car
Personally I wouldn't bother with either. I'd just keep standard. There's absolutely barely any weight to lose there.

The problem is, I've removed the entire heater system and need to find a solution to the screen misting up. I'm now wishing I hadn't removed it, but hey ho, its done now.

Just trying to figure out the best as well as most cost effective solution.
 

Akay

ClioSport Club Member
  Clubman Cooper S
I want to do something like this

20170412_173432_zpsim3dtd0a.jpg
 

JP83

South Central-Oxfordshire
ClioSport Area Rep
I've got a T7, but have really yet to test it on a properly misted screen.
It's done well at clearing the screen, but not like when our little renaults love to drip on the inside of the screen.
 

Stuiemc

ClioSport Club Member
  Audi RS3, Clio 172
This is my setup finding the correct fittings etc was a bigger job than you'd think, ended up making my own reducers at work. Need to buy some ducting for the vents.

IMG_1325.JPG
IMG_1326.JPG
IMG_1327.JPG
 

BRT Motorsport

ClioSport Trader
  Clio Rally car
Not sure how good heated screens are these days but in the past not had them last long, in the rain if you keep T7 heater running when your competeing good enough to keep screen clear, not ran it to the vents, screen only
 

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massiveCoRbyn

ClioSport Club Member
  Several
Not sure how good heated screens are these days but in the past not had them last long, in the rain if you keep T7 heater running when your competeing good enough to keep screen clear, not ran it to the vents, screen only

Did that just blast up the screen, or blow through the standard dash vents for the screen? I've hooked mine up so it blows through the factory ducting in the dash and onto the screen. You can hardly feel it with it on though, so worried it is going to be cack!
 

BRT Motorsport

ClioSport Trader
  Clio Rally car
Yes ive got it going through a seald hole in the standard vent hole, to go through to top standard screen vents, and blocked off all other openings, i keep it running on stage if its wet or 1st thing on a cold morning and keeps clear, but if it gets missed up mid stage does take a bit of time to clear
 

Stuiemc

ClioSport Club Member
  Audi RS3, Clio 172

I did look there my problem was I have Forge coolant hoses and the pipes from the thermostat open out to 25mm so I needed to reduce it down to 13mm for the heater. I could of used a series of reducers etc but wanted to keep the amount of joins to a minimum. I knocked up some 25mm>13mm reducers out of some aluminium at work which have done the job.
 

Tomotek

ClioSport Club Member
I fitted a heated screen myself to my clio 182. Worked great at a very rainy Blyton park.
I re used the rear heated screen wiring when I modified the loom. Simply connected the live and earth wires from the UCH to the heated screen. The UCH already has a relay built in and goes through the existing rear screen fuse.

The screen comes with 2 sets of wires, one for each side of the screen. I connected both sides to the same power supply, switched on/off by a button on my custom switch panel.
 

Akay

ClioSport Club Member
  Clubman Cooper S
@Raceface_13 im just going to wire the live to the blower motor and run it to the battery via a switch as the rest of the car electrica are covered by a kill switch anyway.

@Mash. did this in his cup as well so might have more info.
 
yep, use your imagination and you can modify the standard blower to a very light/small size, purely blowing air over the screen, bitta sealant and cutting! which was absolutely fine in wet weather.

Just found what pins in the heater do what speeds and wired up an on-off-on switch.

also had a heated screen in the black clio, that worked very well. if you look at ricky evans motorsport theres a wiring diagram on there... very simple.
 
I want to do something like this

View attachment 1344007

And how is this then controlled? Or does original dash still go on? Interested in seeing some T7 set ups

would also like to know how this is controlled. perfect for my future plans

That's my setup. I've actually been working on it lately. So i've switched out the AC blower for a standard blower which will be a simple ON/OFF control. I've blocked up the cut of part of the airbox and I've used the motors on the right side to lock the flap inside to so that it'll only ever blow air onto the screen. Oh and it'll only blow hot air, there's no temp control.


 
Iv had my T7 hater now for 3 race seasons, 2 of the outlets are plugged and the other two have ducts going into the original windscreen vents sealed.

When running it builds up enough heat to demist the window and on race without problems.

Only problem I had was when one of the heater face/fin split mid race at Castle combe and coolant sprayed everywhere and a lot of steam, I had to retire mid race (I wasn’t happy) T7 sent out a new heater free of charge so thats was good.

For those competing you will have to build a splash protector over the coolant joints of pipework and heater, and mark with red tape.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
  E46M3
Did you use bulkhead adapters for that? Or was the size of piping the same? Want to order one but not sure what size fitting I need for the pipes.
 


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