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It was me that suggested checking lift at tdc.
It wasnt meant to be cam specific or based on disputing these cams use stock timing marks, it was to prove that the correct lift was being applied at the valves.....a basic thing to rule out when chasing lost power.
Well practically speaking power doesnt just dissapear does it.
Assuming the dyno is reading as it should, and assuming the fuel and ignition system is functioning properly, then its (basically) down to cylinder sealing, volume of air per cylinder, fuelling value and ignition advance value...
I personally think its a shagged motor, % gain is pretty much correct for the itb work, its the starting figure which is low (and brings the corresponding modified figure down).
Leakdown test the fucker...bet its leaking like a b**ch past the valves.
Confirm basics:
-leakdown test
-confirm lift@tdc (don't assume it's correct for the cams just cos the Renault timing markers have been verified--cams could be fitted wrong way round---it happens)?
-base ignition angle correct?
-fuel pressure correct?
-ecu/injectors/coil functioning correct
What bodies do you have?
If it's the 118mm dcoe type then easy enough to use a jenvey rail and just block the injector holes in the head (jenvey sell bungs for this).
If you are using short bodies then keep the rail in the original setup as it will foul the filter housing if you have it on the...
A leak down test will show leakage on the valves and rings, it will help determine cylinder sealing efficiency.
And find out intake length as this can have a massive effect on final outup.
Hutchie ^^ has.
like you say yourself "when well set up"...the problem is think they can do it on a shoe-string then whinge when it costs more than £500.
Its been done on williams clios a couple of times, all 3 i know of have made s**t power simply because they havnt made a long enough...
The data contained in the ecu can be edited at any point, so it doesnt matter if there are condition dependent maps, so long as the correct data as been edited i.e to suit all conditions, so no the statement is incorrect.
if its out, you'll have to lock the crank, slacken pulleys and re-align cams. pretty much the full job tbh.
get Sideways danny on the job, he'll have it sorted..
What exhaust is on it? Try adjusting it so as to move the d/p away from the subframe.
Also, did you try shifting the engine BACKWARDS, i.e opposite to whats in that pic above?