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@dann2707 says can you make it an iPad Pro please, for when he wins.

Can't really fit them wrong if you have everything in place and torqued up. The disc shouldn't be able to move on the bearing like it has.

Looking like the culprit then.

Are you getting any rpm reading when cranking? That'll be one way to tell if it's the sensor.

Yeah just follow it back behind the liner.

If it is that yeah, it's part of the bearing. Usually if it's a sensor, they die and stay dead so the light would be on all the time. You could swap the sensors from side to side if they are same, I'm not sure on those. Then see if the problem moves to the other side or stays.

About £50 odd for the seals now. Was £40 a few years ago.

That's not the full kit. Missing water pump, cam seals (pulley side) and aux belt kit.

Sounds like the magnetic ring on the back of the bearing. Be alright for the MOT if it only does it at motorway speeds.

Yeah, pretty much.

I would try what i suggested and then go from there. Just keep your fluid level topped up.

Shouldn't have crushed it with the plastic clamps like you say, but you never know... I'm guessing the caliper was working ok before you replaced it? (apart from the binding issue). You could try taking the flexi off from where it joins to the hardline, if a steady drip of fluid comes from...

When you clamped the hose, just check you haven't crushed it too much. I've seen it happen and it'll cause a restriction in fluid flow. Sounds plausible seeing as the caliper was only off for a few minutes at most, not enough time for the system to drain causing air. Take the caliper off...

Lucky it hadn't failed and gone the way, otherwise you'd have lost a wheel or two 😳

You get SERV + ABS light mate if a sensor is dead. Just have a look and make sure the ends haven't been chewed up by the ABS ring. I can sort airbag light for you at CSF.

As we suspected then mate. Rear hubs should be fine, even though it has scored them. Structurally they'll be fine. How are your abs sensors, that's the main thing 👀

Sound mate.

I am mate yeah. In the Megane now the Clio has gone, but not on track.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334287477931?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338749392&toolid=20006&_ul=GB&customid=GB_131090_334287477931.142394305586~1872092124158-g_Cj0KCQjwiMmwBhDmARIsABeQ7xSepDb6OeOtswpsf8rA2TbV42rlvfd6b6jJM1gvwss6V_7wJ5tLgEcaAnUsEALw_wcB&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiMmwB...

They're fairly tight and might end up bending it. I've only ever removed them to replace with new so never worried about ruining them. Replacements on eBay aren't too expensive.

https://m.autodoc.co.uk/snr/1928124

Dlux is cheap when you consider it's a trim AND wheel coating. So saves having to buy two products.

Just edited my reply, not quite right ones.

Have you got any circlip pliers? Could try taking it out and see where the groove is or just tap the outer race of the bearing from the front and see if it'll go back inside further.

Bearing would be held in by the hub nut, so it's the disc moving inward I'd say.

Genuine SNR discs are £75 each on Autodoc currently. Edit - they're the wrong ones actually, 26 tooth abs rings instead of 44.... Although you could fit new rings to them.

Yeah I agree, it does look that way. The main circlip should definitely be in a groove. Just not sure why it would start making contact all of a sudden.

Hmm that seems alright. Need a genuine disc to check the depth at which the bearing sits. Guessing there's no play in it?

Bearing does look further inside there... Could just be the angle. But I can see what looks like a circlip that's not in place properly 🧐 Can you move the bearing at all?

Not sure how it didn't make the grinding noise from the start 🤔 If it's contacting now but wasn't when fitted then it can only be that the bearing has moved or failed inside surely?