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im gunna burn my car..........





rite, the non-starting saga continues. a quick recap on the situation;

had to take the engine out of the 16v for the third time 2 weeks ago, to sort a powersteerign leak. got that fixed, but as soon as engine was put back in it wudnt crank over. originally wen i connected up the battery, the alarm went all wonky on me-started flashin the indicators really quick, and makin a funny sound from the siren. i turned it off. after this point it didnt crank agen. wud turn the key, and there wud be nothing.

anyway, by this point i was mighty peeved, and cudnt be arsed to work on it. after a few days i tried starting it, and it fired up straight away. from this point on for the next week, it wud crank and then it wudnt crank over. usually after jacking up the car and finishin off bits n pieces.

then last week, it stopped working all together. on wednesday i got another starter motor to see if it wud cure, and it did!!!!! fired up straight away, no problems. although the battery ligh is now on-think the alternators nuked now as well. then today started up fine, ran engine upto temp, switched off. went back out a few hrs later, and the same thign happened!!!!!!! wudnt crank, jsut get a loud click form the soleniod, and the lights now go dim, but it wont crank. ive changed the main wire from battery to starter, didnt make any difference.

help me plz!!!! my car is finished now, after 3months off the road, but it wont start under its own power!!!! i wanna burn it!

jimbo

p.s. all the connections on battery, alternator, and starter are tite, nothing loose at all!!
 


I hate alarms and imobilisers. They are bad news when you want to do something on your car that involves disconnecting it.

Try engine earth strap. Make sure it is a very good connection, otherwise it will only turn over once in a while if your lucky.
 
  172 & LCR


Id go for bad earth aswell I had the same happen to me before, make sure you clean all the earths including battery terms and cover all conections in copper grease.

Hope it solves your prob.
 


yeah its doing my head in now. ive spent months stripping the car down. had to bin the bendix abs system, as it was nakered. swapped it over to normal servo brakes. the steerign rack was nakered as well, so i did all that while engine was out.

puts the engine back in, runs sweet as nut, but the brakes didnt work. turned out to be a nakered vacuum servo. so out came the engien once again.

the brakes worked fine now, but one of the high pressure pas lines on the rack wer leaking. only way to fix it-remove engine again! arrrrrgh. sorted the steering rack leak, put the engine back in, then it started playing silly buggers didnt it-i want it to start under its own power!!!! once its going its running really well, french heaps!

jimbo

p.s. both earths seem to be conected up okay, tho il have a another check to make sure theyre fine. mite take it to a garage, let them fix it!

p.p.s. i can remove a 16v engine in 1 hr 30mins!:D a clutch change take 3hrs tops!
 
  BMW 320d Sport


Thats pretty good Jimbo, maybe you should open up a mobile engine removal service? Have you tried taking a 16v lump out of a Clio engine bay as well?
 


nah, not tried a clio 16v, wudnt be that difficult to do tho.by the way paul mitchell has got a clio williams lump with 40k miles for sale nick.

jimbo
 


erm, the spec is still the same as it was before, gasflowed head, thats it really. altho it is now clean, and freshly painted. jsut got a new rack and normal brakes. got sum tasty megane 15inch alloys as well. looks bril

jimbo
 


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