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How to change rear shocks

Discussion in 'Engine, Gearbox, Exhausts & Running Gear' started by prezza, Mar 3, 2007.

  1. prezza

    prezza

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2005
    Messages:
    19
    Location:
    County Durham
    Car:
    RenaultSport clio 172 mk2
    Hello to all. One of by rear shocks blew its seal the other day on my 2002 FF Clio 172 after only covering 33K!!
    After reading the threads I couldnt find any fitting guides so thought I'd post my own after I had fixed mine myself.
    The standard shocks cost me £53 each including VAT and I would reccommend that both sides be changed together if one does go. The problem is easy to spot as if a seal goes you will see hydraulic fluid running down shaft of the shocker if you look underneath, the car may droop on that side and you may get a knocking from the affected side when going over bumps whhich will worsen as fluid empties and you lose damping.


    To do this job you will only need your standard car jack, a 16mm spanner or deep socket, 18mm socket, some grease, an hour and a mug of tea.

    1/ Work on one side at a time, firstly removing top strut rubber cone ( found in boot ) and loosen off 16mm nut with spanner or deep socket, but do not remove completely to just keep it in place.

    2/ Place car jack under relevent jacking point on the side youre doing for support but no need to raise at this time.

    3/ Reach under car from rear and remove 18mm bolts holding bottom of shocker onto swing arm.

    4/ Raise car up a few inches and completely remove 16mm top strut nut in boot ( see 1 ) and damper will fall away from vehicle.

    5/ Note that at this point I smeared a little white grease onto the rubber areas which contact with top strut when tightened into place just to stop any possible squeaking and reduce wear on them.

    6/ I fitted new damper by firstly feeding shocker up into wheelarch and into place and at this point screw the 18mm bottom bolt a couple of turns in by hand just to stop the thing from falling out.

    7/ I then tightened up the 16mm top nut using a spanner and small adjustable to hold onto the top spline to give it a final nip.

    8/ You can then fully tighten up the bottom 18mm bolt, remove jack, give it a final nip up from underneath and hey presto!

    PLEASE NOTE I chose to put a little copper grease on the 18mm bolt and be very careful when refitting this as they can thread easily if you are not careful.

    I would always advise that an axle stand is utilsed when working under the car.

    TOP TIP - utilise the jack to raise or lower car until 18mm bolt is alligned with its thread.

    Although I am no mechanic this was a very very simple job and Ive listed how I done the job in detail to assist anyone I can.
     
  2. davejm123

    davejm123

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2006
    Messages:
    955
    Location:
    Epsom, Surrey
    Car:
    Milltek'd 182
    :smile: nice one mate.
     
  3. john182rs

    john182rs

    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2006
    Messages:
    4,718
    Location:
    Nottingham'ish
    Car:
    ITB BG 182
    nice one dude i just got to buy 2 rear shocks now...
     
  4. briny182

    briny182

    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2007
    Messages:
    345
    Location:
    Manchester
    Car:
    Clio 182
    cheers for that, bumping an old thread so i find it when i get home :smile:

    both my rears have totally gone, I don't think the car is supposed to continually bounce at the back, even with a boot full of work gear!
     
  5. jaleach

    jaleach

    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2009
    Messages:
    136
    Location:
    Reading, Berkshire
    Car:
    Megane 230 F1
    Bump - Thanks for the guide - used this over the weekend and worked a treat. This should be pinned!
     
  6. Mells

    Mells

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2005
    Messages:
    3,161
    Bump great guide!

    Anyone worrying about replacing OEM shocks dont. It was more work jacking up the car and taking off the wheels than actually changing the shocks. I'd have been gutted if I'd paid someone to do it tbh.

    Cant really go wrong. I've never done this before and it only took me an hour and I wasnt rushing.

    Only thing I'd add to the above guide is to hold the 16mm nut inside the car with an adjustable spanner so you dont twist the shocks when taking the old ones out. Also, add some thread lock to the 18mm bolt at the bottom of the shock when doing it back up.

    Renault want £8 for the 18mm bolt, £1 of the nut and £1 for the washer all plus VAT! So dont damage the old ones!!
     
  7. yee_har

    yee_har ClioSport Club Member

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2004
    Messages:
    106
    Location:
    Perthshire
    Thanks for guide. Used it yesterday.

    If doing it again and time allowed I'd soak the exposed part of the bottom bolt with WD40 or similar well in advance. I hadn't initially realised that the end of the bolt was exposed and - whilst it was relatively easy to get started - towards the end it started to tighten up again (as the exposed claggy end came through the threaded part). At first I thought it was downward pressure on the bolt but the bottom of the shock could be wiggled on the bolt so I knew it was OK to carry on. Bolt shown below after refitting and before tidying up the copper grease!

    [​IMG]

    The new damper part number is 82 00 681 125

    The ones that came off were branded KYB; the new (Renault, boxed) ones have no branding on the damper itself and looked if anything cheaper than the originals.
     
  8. garry.manning

    garry.manning ClioSport Club Member

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2011
    Messages:
    14
    Car:
    Iceberg 172 A/C C/C
    Bump to find on tapatalk, great guide thank you!
     
  9. garry.manning

    garry.manning ClioSport Club Member

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2011
    Messages:
    14
    Car:
    Iceberg 172 A/C C/C
    Helped no end although it was so simple. 45 mins in the icy cold. Got a pair for £78 inc posted from a Renault dealership. Haggled as original price was £86 inc postage as BIN or best offer. #winner
     
  10. Mark_P

    Mark_P

    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2012
    Messages:
    323
    Location:
    Glasgow
    Car:
    Clio 182
    Can the mods not shove this into the ClioSport Guides section?
     
  11. MaintenanceMan

    MaintenanceMan

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2011
    Messages:
    44
    Location:
    Washington - North East UK
    Car:
    E30 325i & 172 Cup
    I had problems with this method when fitting Koni shocks and Sportline springs. I had to put a trolley jack under the shock and jack it up in order to get enough thread to tighten the top nut onto. This may have been due to the new rubbers, or the Koni shocks might me slightly shorter than standard ones.
     
  12. bozothenutter

    bozothenutter ClioSport Club Member

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2011
    Messages:
    1,560
    Location:
    Netherlands
    Car:
    FF Arctic blue 182
    maybe move it too suspension or the guides?
     
  13. drewos

    drewos

    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2013
    Messages:
    2
    Thanks for the post, I felt chuffed to bits after doing this job on my 182 and I'm no mechanic either. I used a good dollop of rubber grease instead of the white grease. All good, driving much nicer...
     

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