Help wanted near Crawley please. Clip diagnostic tool maybe?

[Jackie]

Would very much appreciate some diagnostic help from someone near Crawley if possible. I'm happy to drive to you anywhere in south east England and bring beer tokens with me.

Got a few issues with my 182 that I think a proper diagnostic tool might help with.

1: yellow Engine light in bottom right corner flashing now and then for a minute or two. This happens occasionally, usually on start up. Seems to run fine though.
(I've put some injector cleaner in tank to see if that helps clean old injectors)

2: Majority of times car is driven the traction control and serv lights illuminate at some point. (Used to be TRC, serv and abs lights in past, 2 better than 3 hopefully)
Restart the engine and they go away for the rest of the drive normally.
I have previously replaced 1 abs sensor on rear NS. And also replaced brake pedal sensor/switch.
I'm guessing another abs sensor is dying or abs toothed rings too corroded?

3: probably related to issue 2. Traction control has been randomly kicking in for no obvious reason for a split second. In wet and dry conditions driving dead straight just has a tiny spasm for the hell of it.
Has only ever done this once a few years ago (was on a bumby road tbf). but has done it 2 days in a row now on perfect tarmac driving at a steady speed.

Happy to come to you and actually meet a fellow enthusiast in person.

Any advice or help offered is much appreciated. Cheers peeps.

 

[Jackie]

If there's no one around with the clip diagnostic things could someone recommend a decent Renault specialist garage maybe?

Cheers

 

[hopgop1]

Two techs in Dartford? Not used them myself, but I think they're often recommended on here.
If you're coming up Lincolnshire way I'd be happy to plug my RSTuner in and have a read of codes.

 

[Jackie]

Very kind mate. Maybe I'll take you up on your offer.

I went out for a 20 min blast just now and didn't see a single light... Which was nice.

Would your rstuner be able to see old codes ok? Very intermittent these warning lights.

 

[hopgop1]

Very kind mate. Maybe I'll take you up on your offer.

I went out for a 20 min blast just now and didn't see a single light... Which was nice.

Would your rstuner be able to see old codes ok? Very intermittent these warning lights.

Yeah it's not quite as good as CLiP, but can actually talk to the Renault stuff unlike the generic readers. I've got the ABS module for it too, so I can read your ABS codes.
I'm up near Grantham, just off the A1 if you're ever in the area, drop me a PM, would be happy to help out.

 

[Jackie]

Bloody legend.

Really appreciate your help fella.

 

[Jackie]

Have you used the RSTuner to change your engine mapping? If so was it good?

 

[JamesBryan]

I have the same SERV and Traction lights come on, but only when steady cruising at 60+mph on the motorway 😂

The code for mine every time is brake pedal sensor/switch, which i've changed and even got it set up so that the slightest touch of the pedal brings the brake lights on.

Not sure what else to do.

 

[hopgop1]

Have you used the RSTuner to change your engine mapping? If so was it good?

I’ve got the 98 ron map on mine, will never be as good as a proper dyno map from the likes of efi, but it makes the engine idle way smoother and gives some more torque down low. I couldn’t map your car for example though, need a reprog licence for each new car, so mine is locked to my car for mapping. Tons of threads on here about it if you want to have a read.

 

[Jackie]

I have the same SERV and Traction lights come on, but only when steady cruising at 60+mph on the motorway 😂

The code for mine every time is brake pedal sensor/switch, which i've changed and even got it set up so that the slightest touch of the pedal brings the brake lights on.

Not sure what else to do.

Maybe the issue is we have the pedal sensor too sensitive? So it's getting brake pedal signals with just the pedal rattling around?

I really need to change the brake fluid also, probably over 10 year old.

I did manage to have car working very well for a number of years when it was my daily.
Car was sorned for couple years in a covered car park. I just refreshed all suspension components, mot'd, put in some 98 octane fuel (which I never used when it was my daily)
And that's when the engine management light started having a rave for a couple minutes at start up.
Apparently that could be injectors being dirty. Maybe that Wynn's injector cleaner is actually working because it was fine yesterday.

 

[JamesBryan]

Maybe the issue is we have the pedal sensor too sensitive? So it's getting brake pedal signals with just the pedal rattling around?

Possibly, although i can't see that explaining why it only happens from a certain speed for me.

 

[Jackie]

It's just old French car problems I guess.

When the esp spazzes out in the wet it's a bit unnerving for sure.

 

[JamesBryan]

It's just old French car problems I guess.

When the esp spazzes out in the wet it's a bit unnerving for sure.

Yeah that is weird, mine doesn't do that.

It's possible it could be a steering angle sensor fault for you.

 

[Jackie]

Yeah that is weird, mine doesn't do that.

It's possible it could be a steering angle sensor fault for you.

That actually on the steering column? Difficult to get too?

 

[JamesBryan]

That actually on the steering column? Difficult to get too?

Behind the steering wheel, not too difficult.

Just have to be careful with it, as if it's not broken it soon could be if you start messing 😅

 

[Daniel]

If it’s been parked up for a while, there’s every chance you have a corroded ABS ring. They can play havoc.

 

[GrahamS]

1 will be an injector, I did a video a while back on this.
2 and 3 would likely be a failed ABS sensor or potentially a crackers ABS ring as noted
Check the steering wheel is straight when going stright. Tracking needs to be in order to also not cause ABS/ESP issues

 

[Jackie]

1 will be an injector, I did a video a while back on this.
2 and 3 would likely be a failed ABS sensor or potentially a crackers ABS ring as noted
Check the steering wheel is straight when going stright. Tracking needs to be in order to also not cause ABS/ESP issues

Thanks.
Tracking is really good considering suspension work I did. I will be getting 4 wheel alignment at some point.

 

[alex.qts]

I am in weybridge and have a Clip. More than welcome to connect up if you are around the area to see what is going on.

 

[Touring_Rob]

1 will be an injector, I did a video a while back on this.
2 and 3 would likely be a failed ABS sensor or potentially a crackers ABS ring as noted
Check the steering wheel is straight when going stright. Tracking needs to be in order to also not cause ABS/ESP issues

Agree with this,

1 is either an injector failing or a primary lambda sensor on its way out.
2 is almost certainly a corroded or cracked ABS ring, its unlikely to be the sensor if its intermittent - normally the sensor will fail open and the ABS light will immediately illuminate.

I would have wheels off and look at the sensor rings, use a little toothbrush/wirebrish and brake cleaners to see if you can clean them up. You can buy the rings on eBay and they are not difficult to change. The rear abs rings aren't visible with the disk fitted.

The front primary and secondary lambdas are the same - you could try swapping them round.

 

[Touring_Rob]

Sometimes the ABS sensor can get a load of iron filings all over its face which does them no favours. Worth having a good look at them. Couple of hours work at most to have wheels off and take a good look.

 

[Jackie]

I am in weybridge and have a Clip. More than welcome to connect up if you are around the area to see what is going on.

Very much appreciated Alex.

I'll give the rings and abs sensors a clean at some point like touring Rob suggested. Hopefully I can sort myself.

 

[Jackie]

Agree with this,

1 is either an injector failing or a primary lambda sensor on its way out.
2 is almost certainly a corroded or cracked ABS ring, its unlikely to be the sensor if its intermittent - normally the sensor will fail open and the ABS light will immediately illuminate.

I would have wheels off and look at the sensor rings, use a little toothbrush/wirebrish and brake cleaners to see if you can clean them up. You can buy the rings on eBay and they are not difficult to change. The rear abs rings aren't visible with the disk fitted.

The front primary and secondary lambdas are the same - you could try swapping them round.

Cheers for advice Rob.
The flashing engine management light only seems to flash on cold starts. When warm it seems to be fine.
Usually the manifold side lambda sensor goes first people say.

 

[Jackie]

So Chloe's not well at all it seems.

Started today and she sounded super rough, was so bad I thought It was an exhaust problem at first.
Took to my local garage and it seems to be the engine misfiring.

Here's what my Bluetooth scanner picked up.

 

[Jackie]

Destructive misfire doesn't sound good. Especially when spelt incorrectly...

 

[Touring_Rob]

Change injector 3

 

[hopgop1]

Looks like injectors, common on these, fairly easy to change. Just make sure you get the proper magnetti marelli ones.

 

[Jackie]

Should I just do the 1 injector? Or all 4?

And what exactly is the bi mode air solenoid valve?

 

[hopgop1]

Should I just do the 1 injector? Or all 4?

And what exactly is the bi mode air solenoid valve?

Personally I'd do all 4, if one's gone the rest will be on their way. I don't think they're massively expensive either.
Hard to tell with the description from those cheap readers, but I'd assume acoustic valve, not your misfire anyway.

 

[Jackie]

What is the acoustic valve? Just reading online, some people say it's the map sensor or throttle body on engine intake.

 

[Touring_Rob]

If you're on a budget just do one. For some odd reason it always seems to be injector 3 that fails. I replaced all of mine and bought injectors from autodoc but others have had luck with injectors from Amazon/eBay although many are fake Chinese knock offs.

The acoustic valve is a nonsense valve which was used by Renault (i think) to lower induction noise over certain RPM's. Perfectly ok for it to not be working, i unplugged mine and threw it in the bin and noticed zero difference to anything

 

[hopgop1]

What is the acoustic valve? Just reading online, some people say it's the map sensor or throttle body on engine intake.

Most people remove them, good chance yours is unplugged at least, hence the code. Do a search on here for acoustic valve and do some reading.

 

[Jackie]

I think last owner may have had an aftermarket air filter fitted at one point.
It's always had standard air box with a ktec mesh filter since I've owned it.

I won't worry about it then. Cheers for advice boy's.

Maybe when I get the slag running right I'll go to the clio meet up next year. Either of you going to it ?

 

[hopgop1]

Yeah I want to go next year, didn't go this year but did go briefly last year when it was at Blyton.

 

[Jackie]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0068M8966/?tag=cliospnet01-21

Jazzy Jeff is cheapest place.

 

[Jackie]

Got her running again boys.
Only did injector no. 3. Took less than an hour I think.
Sods law another one will die soon, but it is a pretty easy job so not that worried.

I'm pretty impressed that the cars ECU knew there was an injector issue months ago. Won't leave so long to diagnose next time.

Thanks for all your help, really is appreciated.

 

[JamesBryan]

They look like the original ones 😅

 

[Jackie]

They look like the original ones 😅

It is.
Just showing how corroded they are.