Anyone used this? Is it any good?
http://www.meguiars.co.uk/product/397/Meguiars-Headlight-Restoration-Kit/
http://www.meguiars.co.uk/product/397/Meguiars-Headlight-Restoration-Kit/
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Headlight restoration kit
- Thread starter JackJack
- Start date
W
wujek240287
hi, i did restoration today but its not this what i was expected...
its looks better but not like new or maybe i have to spend more time and be more patient...
before:
after:
its looks better but not like new or maybe i have to spend more time and be more patient...
before:
after:
Please stop suggesting such high grades of wet and dry.
If you want to ruin your own headlights, that's your prerogative. Do not use anything below 2000 and ideally you'll want someone with a machine polisher to polish out the sanding marks.
Audi A4 1.8T Sport
800 grit on a headlight. LOL
just throw a bag of sand at it?
its worth mentioning that Polish also comes in 'grades' - T-cut is quite abrasive, Peek polish isnt.
just throw a bag of sand at it?
its worth mentioning that Polish also comes in 'grades' - T-cut is quite abrasive, Peek polish isnt.
You also are unlikely to get the marks that you have inflicted out, due to using such an aggressive grade. The machine polishing part has nothing to do with it. I agree, by hand, you can achieve almost perfect results. But not by using 800 grit.
It's not a wooden door.
W
wujek240287
i was using just sand paper 2500 and after that just normal wax;] YES FRONT LIGHT IS NOT WOODEN DOOR! USE 2000 OR 2500
53 Clio 172
No problems guys, as stated before I was not suggesting that was the best way to go about things but merely stating what I had done. Being honest, I did it off my own back without much advice so probably in hindsight would not have used 800. Still happy with the results that came out, better than they were anywho!
I've used 1200 & 2000, followed by a DA polisher today and it came out quite well.
How much were they?
ClioSport 172 (2003)
x5 more than a restoration job, thats fo sho
Black Gold Trophy
800 is fine providing you use higher grades up to 1500 to get rid of the sanding marks caused by the 800.
The grade you start with depends on the severity of the defects to begin with.
The grade you start with depends on the severity of the defects to begin with.
Black Gold Trophy
Oh ye of little faith...
Watch the video in this thread http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?593494-Yet-another-headlight-thread
Faith has nothing to do with it. You're still wrong in a number of respects.
Firstly, the grade used there is 800, granted. But did you see the state of the lights? Secondly, it's used by an air pressure rotary drill. So will be a more evenly prepped surface. Have you wet sanded by machine and by hand and seen the difference? 800 grit by hand will put scratches into the surface that will be irreparable by hand and will take a long time by machine.
The video also shows the individual work up through a large number of discs. Not 800-2000 "done!"...
Detailing is the art of removing as little surface as possible to remove the defects. This doesn't just apply to paint top coats, but interior painted plastics, headlights, glass etc etc. You wouldn't start with 3M Fast Cut+ to remove minor swirling, so why start with an 800 grade wet and dry paper to remove minor plastic defects?
Lastly, the majority of people that are viewing this thread are newbies without any detailing knowledge or ideas on machine polishing. That is what I take issue with, when people suggest using such low grades of paper!
Black Gold Trophy
Read my earlier post
I didn't say I was sanding by hand anyway, I use a DA to sand then a rotary polisher to return to gloss.
How am I wrong? It all depends on the application, 800 grade is applicaple to a headlight in similar condition to the one in that video.
What you were saying earlier was never use any less than 2000, all I'm saying is lower grades (or as you refer to them.. higher grades) have their application when it comes to headlight restoration.
I take your point about newbies without any detailing knowledge, however I'm speaking from a point of knowledge.
In my opinion they either need to be prepared to learn by their mistakes and if they don't want to risk damaging their headlamp, they should get a cheap headlamp from a scrapyard to practice on first or pay someone who knows what they are doing to do it for them.
Unfortunately, everyone has to start somewhere.
Fair that you are talking from previous experience, but so am I. The experience of "I read this thread, followed it and now have knackered X".
The furring that occurs on Clio headlamps is very very light. Therefore, anything other than starting out with 2000 is un-necessary (based on doing 19 Clios and counting...).
I think the point we will both agree on is having it done professionally is the right course of action. If you want to DIY it, do it at your own risk, but assess how severe the build up is first. But most will not have the correct supplies and will want to do it by going to Halfrauds. This is where the issue stems from as I get daily PMs asking if a drill attachment and G3 will suffice... I was even asked if Mr Muscle Lime something or other was a good alternative to 203s...
Black Gold Trophy
Hahaha!
Fair enough matey
Fair enough matey
I'm going to start forwarding on the questions I get fella. You have to laugh!
bozothenutter
ClioSport Club Member
these guys have what you need, go all the way down to 12000 grit.....sorted.
RS Clio 172 Cup
Done mine today, by hand, 1500 then 2000 then 3000, then 3m finesse polish because its all I'd got. Looks ok, gonna need to do it again I think, must buy a machine polisher an get trained because it was damn hard work!!
