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On most clio2 models the passenger window doesn't go through the UCH, HOWEVER.. if its a high spec UCH-N3, the Passenger window usually DOES go through the UCH. The most common failure of the UCH is water front the sun roof drains. Remove the UCH, clean the back of the PCB, silicone the upper...

Easy Way to test they key, SQUEEZE it between finger and thumb as you turn the ignition on, this 9 times out of 10 will make it work correctly.. if so, you have a bad key.

Squeeze the key as you turn it in the ignition. If this helps, it wont work like that forever, order a replacement key.

Squeeze the key as you turn it in the ignition. If that helps, its prob breakdown of the transponder on the pcb inside the key. (wire-wound ferrite)

Squeeze the key between fingers and thumb as you turn it in the ignition. might be breakdown of the transponder on the pcb inside the key. common to see where the battery in the key has recently been changed and someones levered the pcb out to have a gander, damaging the wire-wound coil. Worth...

Do you have a solid light on the dash? Is it cranking for a couple of seconds then stopping (inhibiting the starter motor) ? If yes, you need to get it on CLIP, the uch is turning that off for some reason, as it controls the starter motor inhibitor relay. Ive seen this happen on loom faults in...

I'm inclined to agree with the last post, with Gas being a nightmare to correctly setup the lambda feedback, and usually its dogged onto the petrol lambda sensors.. I would suspect the feedback to the petrol ecu is not correct.

A way to test it if you can get a UCH with the same part number, start the car on your original uch, then with the engine running, unplug and plug in a replacement.. you can then test all functions (bar immobiliser and remote central locking) with the engine running. Dont wonder too far from...

Thank for the mention Mick, our primary operation is running a database driver website TachosoftOnline.com that accommodates thousands of makes/models are airbags, the system is instant and a user simply needs to have the means to read/write the airbag Eprom (sometimes a 8 leg chip, sometimes...

Surely this isnt for real? lmao

Have you pressure washed the engine? We used to see this with battery lights after pressure washing engine. BTW.. they relay probably isnt the issue for the clicking you experienced, they suffer with bad connections.. removing it and putting the rear wiper one in might have simply disturbed the...

yup.. 3rd party code readers are useless on Renault. You need CLIP

they do suffer with Crank sensors.. best get it scoped to be sure. or if you can get a replacement cheap enough, chance it.

Re: Car wont start with "braking fault" message. lights cut out while driving, help! I seem to be going through all the fault threads saying UCH, UCH, UCH.. but it is the prime time of year for electrical faults.

If the Red Immobiliser (circle) in the dash is on Solid after ignition on, this could be a UCH Lockout. Usually leaving the ignition switched on for a minute or 2 will allow it to reset. This would stop the starter motor cranking the engine, just the same as a rapid flashing light would.

I would say that is a bad repair to the fet replacement. if the repairer didnt clean away the original bad heatsink paste and put new good heatsink paste in, this is exactly what will happen for a while, then it will pack up completely as the fet will burn out. I would also check the FET part...

depending on the ecu/coil setup typically DIS ignition will ignite 2x2 (i think the 2&3 then 1&4 depending on the engine) So if it was a coil pack fault, or wiring loom to the coil pack, or the ecu damaged by a bad coilpack or loom.. it would miss on 2 cylinders, not 1.

ye, .. also i think GSF do them, genuine valeo about the same price.

UCH repair then..

When the transistors blow, they either go open circuit (no fan) or short-circuit.. and your fan will work flat out. When you replace the FET, make sure its put in with new heatsink paste.. otherwise the repair wont last too long. Do you need a part number for the FET.. i'll check for you.

which noise?? :-) I hear a worn starter motor, then a worn bearing.. If its been hard to start since the noise, does it go off when you put foot to clutch.. or is this a robot gearbox.. i think i heard the pump for that. I would check where that noise is coming from, might well be fly wheel.

If your ECU is a 5NR2.C5 or similar IAW Magnetti Morelli on the back of the airbox (rear of the engine) its quite likey to be 1 or 3 things.. 1. The wiring loom as it passes under the battery try and up to the fuse box corrodes here 2. The ecu security bracket has worn through the left plug...

does any of this occur when the engine isnt running? Have the plugs been changed before this started happening?? Sounds like wrong spark plugs to me if it only happens with the engine is running.

most functions will work yes, you may need to configure some functions, but the basics will be ok. It certainly wont cause any faults (or shouldn't) If they are both N3 UCH, its even better, as they are full equipment and can be correctly configured. The only exception is if you have a N1...

...you did put diesel in it at the petrol station, right?

I think you will have your work cut out for you on that, that stuff burns HOT.. Dont try to run it too much, get some live data from it, check the fuel pressure is consistent and at the presure it should be, pass that, get the injectors checked if nothing on DTC shows up. I dont want to say...

is it by any chance a FAP/DPF model?? what is on the ecu, EDc16CPxx or similar, what are those 2 numbers i marked xx? I'm wondering if the cleaner/additive clogged up the fap filter :-s

Re: one side light is wrorking but the other one is not /my dashboard lights so i cou patience and brilliance :)

only blowing a fuse when you move the car would suggest to me the ABS unit is presenting a short when initialised, i.e. gets an imput from the pulse sensors off the road wheels.. so i doubt its a wiring fault. Just plug a pump/ecu in and test if it blows the fuse. if not, swap the ecu off the...

oooo.. so it ran on neat additive in the filter, but wont run on a small amount added to the tank. CR injectors im sure, how far did he drive/how long for before it stopped? any smoke or misfire or just cut out clean? where is the filter, pre or post high pressure pump?