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Directly under the rear bench is the tank. If its def not petrol, it wont be coming from under that area. Try the obvious like the spare wheel well as it might be gathering there. If not, the only other place it might accumulate is the rear quarter panels under the rear windows. To access...

Nothing original, but along the lines of; Powdercoat wheels Tyres Steering Wheel Uprated engine mounts Spruce up bodywork

The driveshafts are held in situ by the strut/hub - remove the hub and they will both slide out, although the passenger side does have 3 bolts to hold the boot on

I quite like fom that angle; it looks V6-esque, however, ould agree with above comment above clearance Like the looks of the car in general though. The side strips certainly help

That damage to the N/S doesnt look severe - I notice a new front wing, ding in the door and rubbing strip needed. Is that it, as it seams a fair bargain?

Probably best to run a die around the thread as youve probably mangled it slightly

Sorted. I knew about the trip computer, but didnt realise that if you press the button when 'oil ok' is displayed, it shows the oil level Thanks for the pointer

Up until a month or so ago, the oil level indicator on the dash worked fine - shows the amount of 'O's that represent a full oil capacity Recently however, I now only get the 'oil level ok' displayed with niether any 'O's nor any dashes, although upon checking at the dipstick, theres not been...

DId it perform as you were expecting, or were there any niggles that needed to be sorted?

Im guessing he means the nut is off the steering column, but the boss is still wedged onto. Probably didnt help forcing it on, but what about some sort of puller method?

Bad times. I find that a lot of people dont check behind on roundabouts and too many a time have had to hold back for fear of the above. Hopefully a settlement doesnt become difficult

Legend. Thanks for that

Can I be cheeky and ask for the code against R468 pls

Yes, thats the one

If the n/s of the bumper/wing and alloy is the 'only' damage (track rod end & suspension aside), you did pretty well to avoid any more severe impact damage or hitting another car

You do need to force the hub downwards to locate it in the strut as the ARB can force the assembly upwards. Push on the top of the disk whilst pushing inwards. That might get rid of some of the current misalignment, but the pics do show a far amount

Gorgeous. Thanks for the wallpaper!

Seems a bit marmite, but love the rims - much much nicer than the five spokes Hell of a lot of power for FWD though

Hi Im in the process of rebuilding the front drivetrain but have hit a problem with the n/s driveshaft. When shaft is not in place, the gearbox turns freely. Theres isnt an issue putting the shaft back into the box nor when theres no pressure on the shaft. However, when both hub-to-strut...

On the Ph1, they are M14's x ? (cant remember the length off the top of my head

Just use a wire brush and hammerite. Ive had the pad carrier pwdercoated, but youd need to strip down the caliper itself fully to get coated. Plus with blasting, you will have a hard time keeping the fluid channels clear of debris

^ Agreed. Coming out, I can understand sheering, but tightening, you should know when the force being applied is too much for the situation

Two inner brackets, and two outer brackets (to the wishbone). That leaves the ARB loose, but you need to undo the gear link bar and the rear subframe-to-chassis plates to drop it out fully

I assume you mean drivers side? Merely push back in - theres no retaining ring that will give you any sort of 'click'. Its held in situ when the hub is bolted in fully

Seems constructive enough to me; The Ktec/similar mounts have been engineered in the correct way and arent a significant sum of money. If you start looking at designing your own, you have to start concerning yourself with correct alignment, correct rubber/material used in the absorbtion.

Re: girlfriend at autosport international Agreed. Disappointed

Undoing the screw is the easy bit (aside from the usual shagged head). For some reason they plastic of the sensor body is generally forced in so hard, you have to destroy upon removal - use a sensible size drill bit and then ream the hole, using plenty of copper grease when fitting the new one.

Cant use the link ;)

Just bought ARB bushes - the inner ones are easy enought to fit. However, you need to take a bit of time and the inner brackets need a bit of patience Im up for a group buy on wishbone & dogbone mount (phase1 172), for sure

Easiest option is to get a (good condition) second hand one. If your model is a 1*2 any other hub wont fit as I believe the internal splines are different Above link should be what youre after