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Terrible wheels again. Why can't they get some decent wheels on it?!

It's not about not lifting. When the rear shocks are gone, you can easily spin it just by driving quickly.

I didn't know this. That's why it feels so bloody fast then. There's loads of stuff in this thread I didn't realise you'd done. Steering wheel next I think. It's the least original, but also probably the harshest riding 172 ever :rasp:

It's worth twice that once the management light is switched off. Do it!

I don't think you'll get better reliability from a VAG product over a 182. They really aren't as reliable as people think. I see the reason you bought it, but don't expect it to be fault free "because German".

Just check the brakes aren't siezing first. That's an easy one to check by jacking the car up, and also check how hot the brakes/wheels are after 10+ mile drive. Not sure you'd see such a dramatic drop if it was just brakes though. The front brakes siezed on my S2000 which cut the MPG by from...

The result would be a lot more fuel going in and probably a very confused engine management system resulting in a loss of performance.

I love the flared arches on a 1*2 and the wider track on the Cup. The front is definitely the best angle to take a photo of one.

Have you quoted the wrong post? I didn't say put it in neutral; I said there is little point changing into a lower gear to go down a hill. I am saying you should leave it whatever gear you're in already. Not sure why you're explaining it to me as I completely understand in-gear down a hill is...

You achieve the same by leaving the gears alone and braking down the hill. I can't see why you'd change down a couple of gears just so you don't use the brakes. You are still not using any throttle.

This. Advanced driving (Roadcraft) instructors will tell you to do this. I couldn't quite get my head around changing gear as late as the instructor was telling me, so I now do it a bit earlier than I was taught. I was being asked to change from 6th to 2nd around the time I wanted to...

If in doubt... I'd be getting that replaced if it was me.

I assume the car is a non-runner now? Getting it up to Micks in Nottingham won't be cheap. Hopefully Daniel has you sorted!

Ahh 200T. Thanks.

I've advanced searched for titles of: Clio RS IV and Clio RS 4 Clio 200 Turbo New RS Clio 4 My Clio 4 My Clio 200 Turbo Plus some other variations on that. Can't find anything, can anyone help?

I thought I'd come back and have a look at CS to see how many people had bought one. I was hoping for some opinions from an owner. Is there not even 1 thread on here, or even a long review post from someone with one? I suppose everyone bought the Fiesta.

Your first post sounds fine except for... don't start it every month. If you leave it on the floor, leave the hand brake off. Get a cover for it because bits of crud will drop from the ceiling on to it. Only open the windows a couple of cm so you don't get little animals climbing in. You can if...

Same. Thread title + 7 pages and I thought we had a blown engine thread. Not that I would wish it upon anyone. I always found the computer oil level to be pretty accurate on my 172 Cup. This has reminded me to check the oil in my car tomorrow, every S2k owner seems to be extremely paranoid about...

'Coasting' in gear isn't coasting.

City centre with an RS clio - now that really is a case of buying the wrong car!

I'd agree if we actually got hot summers. I just open the window if I want a bit of air. I drive mine daily - love it.

Nail, head. Both of you could have avoided the accident, but only one of you caused it. Maybe he could have stopped if he'd been quicker on the brakes, but ultimately you created an obstacle. Relying on other people to behave is not a good idea. It should really only take you a second or maybe...

Can no one help? Are the following camber measurements a problem for handling and/or tyre wear? LEFT -1.46 RIGHT -2.21 Edit: Clearly they are out of spec and I have bought camber bolts. But I just want to know if this is a "holy s**t get that done now!" or a "it can wait a couple of weeks/months".

If true.... :eek:

Can someone just confirm my thinking of this please? My car is running too much negative camber and the two sides are different (right is -2.22 and left is -1.45), so going by the instructions I should point the tab out towards the wheel to put more positive camber on? The nominal value is -0.45...

Calculated the true effect of this. The left wheel is 1 degree, and the right wheel is 1.77 degrees away from nominal. So the top outside edge of the left tyre is 5mm further inside than it should be. The top outside edge of the right tyre is 8.8mm further inside than it should be...

Well the toe was way out as expected, but that's all done. What's more concerning to me is the camber: LEFT 1.46 RIGHT 2.21 That's bad right?

Don't use a ratchet on the hub nut, get a long bar on it to increase the torque you're applying to the nut.

No idea on both. I'm going to get the tracking done tomorrow, and we'll see. I can actually see the toe in on the front wheels though, I imagine there will be some comedy numbers on this thread tomorrow. As for camber, the only difference is the 25mm (ish) drop from the cooksports. I can tell...

Today I righted the wrongs I made on Saturday with the top mounts - all good. That f**king rattle I've been chasing for over a year is still there though, I'm beginning to think it's somewhere under the dash now.