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The 172 ph1 engine in my mk1 blew the 7.5 amp fuse I had in for the fuel pump relay, but as I don't have a haynes for the mk2 what is the fuse I should use for this?
I want to fit polybushes to my wishbones but am wondering what's the best way to remove the rubber bushes. I've heard you can burn the rubber out but can you remove the metal sleeve without a press?
Or is there no need to burn the rubber out and just press the whole thing out as one?
I have an F4R in my Mk1 clio and will be taking the engine out to swap gearboxes soon. While it's out i need to change the aux belt as it's mis-aligned.
My question is, can someone tell me by looking at the pics if any pulleys are necessary to change as well as the belt considering my setup...
I didn't think it would be possible as it stands, although I don't like to make things easy for myself! I just like mid-range torque better than the top end gains, was just wondering really.
The car has been going pretty mixed, I've had to do a lot of work on it to get it reliable. I totally...
I imagine there's not enough space but have never seen one in the flesh, so am wondering if one would fit, even with some fabrication modification to the subframe.
Ahh the starter motor heatshield!! It is on there, you just can't see it from that pic. I've also got a nimbus manifold heatshield to protect the brake pipes.
There's a funny story to the starter heatshield though. A few months ago when i first took the starter off as I thought it had packed...
I thought all mk1 clios running the F4R conversion needed the 5 rib belt though. I'm sure I've read that loads of times. Was more wondering about the alignment, which is off.
Since getting the car i have been wondering if the aux belt is misaligned, as i know it can take out he cambelt if it snaps.
From these pictures can anyone tell?
It's the 4th picture that looks most out of line between the pas and alternator pulleys
crank pulley
crank pulley
altenator...
I've got another problem with mine
I decided to totally take apart the wiring loom to take away all unnecessary wiring (as even the air con wiring was still left on!) The insulation on the alternator to starter to +ve was also damaged and that must have been what caused my 120 amp fuse to...
I've got another problem with mine :(
I decided to totally take apart the wiring loom to take away all unessecary wiring (as even the air con wiring was still left on!) The insulation on the alternator to starter to +ve was also damaged and that must have been what caused my 120 amp fuse to...
Nothing, but let me explain my plans.
I've got an F4R in my mk1 and to get the aux gaugues to work i need to put the valver oil pressure sender on a pressure takeoff, so was thinking of putting a t-piece on the pressure switch hole to run both the switch and pressure sender.
I can only find...
does anyone know the O.E. spec oil pressure switch switching pressure?
Demon tweeks has a 15psi and a 25psi switch for sale, would either of them be suitable?
I'm going to put a project thread up soon to save writing everything here, but I've been extremely busy with the car getting everything just how I want it. Rev counter and oil gauges are pretty much next on the list of jobs, so not working yet!
It was the 120 amp fuse that connects straight to the battery. I forgot about checking there and it was only after I'd taken off the earth straps to clean them up that I decided to check the battery terminals too. I know for next time now!
Runs sweet now.