FAO Mk1 F4R'd owners...Fault thread inside.

[Daniel]

Right then, off to Renault parts department monday morning then! lol.

[Daniel]

Two brand new arms fitted on thursday and today I covered 60 miles completely trouble free!

Cliosport comes to the rescue yet again. Fankyoo. x

[tim_hybrid]

Last weekend i drove to the petrol station to do tyre pressures and get fuel. After putting air in the tyres I tried to start the car but the starter motor just clicked.
I thought at first the solenoid had just gotten a bit sticky so gave it a tap but that didn't help.

I got a push start off someone and drove round to the pumps to fill up. After filling up the exact same thing happened. I tried rocking the car forwards and backwards in gear but that didn't help either.
I decided it would be best to get another push start and drive home so i could investigate the problem on the driveway. After not a lot of investigating I decided to put a 2nd hand starter in it as i though that would be the end of it, but it still just clicks on turning the key.

Watch the video below. (this is the 2nd hand starter, but the one i took off did exactly the same)


The starter has been verified as working before being sent from mat brown and the battery was new a month ago.

Any ideas as to what's going wrong before I start investigating tommorow?

[tim_hybrid]

This is sorted now

[Sean6545]

What was it? Poor earth?

[tim_hybrid]

It was the 120 amp fuse that connects straight to the battery. I forgot about checking there and it was only after I'd taken off the earth straps to clean them up that I decided to check the battery terminals too. I know for next time now!
Runs sweet now.

[Patrick_g46]

How is the car going for you tim? Did you ever get the rev counter and oil pressure wired up?

[tim_hybrid]

I'm going to put a project thread up soon to save writing everything here, but I've been extremely busy with the car getting everything just how I want it. Rev counter and oil gauges are pretty much next on the list of jobs, so not working yet!

[Daniel]

It was the 120 amp fuse that connects straight to the battery. I forgot about checking there and it was only after I'd taken off the earth straps to clean them up that I decided to check the battery terminals too. I know for next time now!
Runs sweet now.

Interesting. I've just bought a new battery and a new (secondhand) starter motor as mine has been having the same issues. I'll fit all the new bits anyway but I'll also be checking this too!

Cheers.

[tim_hybrid]

Check that first! It may save you the hassle of having everything apart to find out that that's what was wrong.

[Stu 16v]

Sorry to crash in on your thread guys but I'd be interested in finding out how to get the rev counter working??

Currently running a Ph1 172 setup in a Ph1 16v but I like the old style clocks!!

[f0xy]

You need to add a 10k 'pullup' resistor to the tacho/rev counter wire. Basically get a 10k ohm resistor, strip a part of the tacho/rev counter wire back, solder one end of the resistor onto it, then solder a 12v+ ignition live onto the other end of it. Your rev counter will now work fine.

[Stu 16v]

Hi, excellent thanks very much for replying.....off to Maplins to buy a resistor it is!!

[tim_hybrid]

I've got another problem with mine

I decided to totally take apart the wiring loom to take away all unessecary wiring (as even the air con wiring was still left on!) The insulation on the alternator to starter to +ve was also damaged and that must have been what caused my 120 amp fuse to blow recently.

Anyway, since taking my time and doing a thorough job on the wiring, the car wont start!

The fuel pump does not prime. I get 12V to 2 of the smaller wires when the ignition is on but no power to the 2 main power wires that turn to 12V for a few secs when priming.
The fuel pump does work for sure as I've tested it by connecting it directly to the battery though.

I played about with swapping the relays about with no sucess before resorting to this to temporarily bypass them.



This only served to make the rad fan come on, but didn't make the fuel pump come alive or get any life out of the car when cranking.

The coil does not get any power on ignition, and I didn't have anyone to help so couldn't check when cranking.

The engine does turn over fine though and the battery has a good charge.

What are the other possible factors that would stop the car from starting?

I have double and triple checked to see if there were any wires that i'd forgotten to connect back up, but can't see any.

Could it be ECU related? I had an emulator fault at the start of the year but the fuel pump would still prime then.

Any help/ideas is much appreciated.

Tim

[Try_Something_New]

Hi there,

I have a clio v-reg 2000 1.4

This morning i went to start my car and it started to tick over but then stopped. My first thinking was that it was the battery that was flat. I then got some jump leads and jumped it but it still wouldn't start - just ticking over. I then charged up the battery to 100% and tried the next day. However this time there was nothing, just ticking noises from the battery like it was sparking noises just no sparks.

I then called the recovery guy and he said it was the starter motor that was gone. he then tried to roll the car and start it and it didn't even jump or anything. It is now sat on my drive and i want to see what it is. Is it the starter motor? or could it be the immobilizer?

Please if you have an idea what it could be tell me, because don't want to waste money fixing things that doesn't need to be fixed.

[JonnyLow7]

Ok here we go... simple really and probably me being stupid as usual!

Exhaust is on its last days, new middle section fitted in recent years so thats all good, backbox all good (still original but going strong) but the problem is the little pipe in the middle that connects them, kinda like a right angled pipe that helps angle it over the axel. Its starting to rot away and as a result blowy exhaust, sounded quite throaty and racy to start with but now is awful and annoying haha. Just wondering could I get a pipe from anywhere that would be this shape or does it seem I will have to buy the whole backbox section as when I have been into all the parts shops they have said its only the whole backbox...

Any ideas anyone? Or alternatives to buying new exhaust? Thinking of an aftermarket one eventually!

[10901shrek]

yep, ecu temp sender unit first call!!!